@IAG Performance, i have been waiting for quite some time for the I-LINE 4-door TPE sill guards (without the metallic inlay)... i have mailed your support team, but they couldn't give me an answer on when they would be restocked.
is this going to be back in stock and offered for Black Friday...
did you only replace the corners, or the center channel as well? i currently have JLs in all three positions and the center channel is overpowering the corners, especially the tweeters - producing the dreaded "sibilance."
anyone have an opinion on this question, specifically? i am currently running JLs in all three dash positions and thinking about swapping left and right dash with HERTZ and center with a midrange component driver PRV...
appreciate the insight/feedback.
if/when i swap the sub, i will remember this. for now, the mods of sound deadening and adding polyfil has been a HUGE improvement for the bass end of the system.
so, i did - and i ended up opting to use polyfil and soundproof the sub enclosure and rear compartment (3/4 of it anyway) while retaining the stock sub.
as i got a HUGE amount of value from this post/thread, i wanted to share the results i have achieved, as i know @Ksjrb03 was curious if this...
appreciate the report; only 1K miles on mine and i am a fan! definitely some small things that raise my eyebrows when considering what "should be" on/in a vehicle of this category, but lovin' it nonetheless.
question: my phone charge mat is doing the phone warmer thing and not really charging...
i will also note that i am questioning whether or not the JL coaxial in the center channel is the answer or whether i should opt for a component driver (midrange only) might make it more sonically enjoyable.
i am wondering if (leaving the stock amplification and driver in place) sealing the port, adding polyfil and soundproofing the entire enclosure and surrounding area would create a decent solution for solving the rattle battle and god-awful performance of the subwoofer until i want to tear up the...
ok, first: amazing write up and sharing of your process. i followed your lead on front corners, center channel and read pods as phase 1; thinking about going with 6.5 JL component speakers for kick panels soon to round out the main sound stage.
now, for a question that i've been wrestling with...
for the avoidance of doubt: are you saying DON'T use the ones you posted above? trying to find the white clips and need the part number or an equivalent if someone has, please - and thank you!
otter,
did you ever get anywhere with this? i just did the swap of all dash speakers and rear pods in a B+O system... might do the kick panels as well, but "rattle battle" is my first priority.
i'd like to approach it with the same thinking you noted above; use the factory amp amp and mod the...
roger that; appreciate the feedback. one last question: which polyfil did you use? i was trying to find the type that was more of a continuous mass and less like the "pellets" or small balls that people stuff pillows/toys with...
nice work!
question: outside of being rid of the rattle (huge win) can you tell a difference in the bass response/crispness of the woofer? was curious if it improved the sub sonically as well as being done with the rattle battle.
had a catch can on my '18 F-150 Raptor; always surprised at how much these actually collect - and where it would be going without this installed...
so i am clear about what you have: does your kit come with the UPR Billet Pro Series Check Valves and UPR drain line kit, but NOT the magnetic plug?
i took a look at these and i like the simplicity of them; the four-door IAG kit has that gaudy chrome detail with their branding on it - love their products but not looking for that sort of look for the sill.
question: what is the thickness of the tape on the bottom? i was thinking of buying...