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Here's a video of mine making the bang I'm talking about, the lighter "clicking" before the bang isn't audible in this video because it usually comes from the drivers side and it's lighter like a Abs click almost. Happens as I let off of the gas when you break traction. You can hear I thought I...

Do you know what all was replaced when the front diff was done? It could very well be mechanical but I wonder if your "gun shy" from the first break. Have you tried 4wd since? If a CV axle is broken you'll hear a repetitive constant clicking in 4wd. Not saying this is it, but I've been in a...

It's the second bronco one I've seen in a week, wreckt4d on IG broke his right after the hub splines I believe driver side. Locked front end and wheel spin/bounce on some rocks. And yea for the price you'd hope those 35 splines are 300m or heat treated at least. I get the articulation...

I was thinking some more about this last night and right now the biggest hurdle about a break like this in the long run is that no matter what CV option you choose the wheel side stub shaft gets no thicker. It's physically impossible without a new hub/bearing and even the Dana Advantek...

Awesome! And dang, I guess I'll be bringing spares for our trip next month

Awesome photos and too bad about the axle shaft, I'm hoping it stays that dry for 2 more weeks!

Is that the first part of the ridge on Walden's? Sure looks like it! You might be the first 6G up there Sucks to hear about the axle, how long after using tta did the axle let loose?

Yea I'll definitely have to notch the diff skid at a minimum even more than it is already for the rc diff drop. I ordered the full t6 ranger "bolt-on" kit but I really only wanted their upper mount spacer and the driveshaft spacer. The overseas ranger kit drops all 3 mounts unlike the diff drops...

I think limit straps are definitely an option, but maybe not the option leaving the most performance on the table. A diff drop that drops all 3 mounts even just an inch would reduce angles pretty significantly, and still allow for the full travel range we see out of pretty much every coilover...

I think you misunderstood my screenshot, Tyler (the guy who posted that on Facebook) is Broncbuster, the guy selling TIBUS portals. I'm assuming he is talking about one of his portals being cracked/broken and needing welded. They (at least the Tibus) are 7075 aluminum and are not cast housings...

I'm assuming the housing is what's cracked, but not sure we will ever hear more about it. The housings are 7075 aren't they?

Good to hear and see, I plan on ordering Yukons 5.38s and chromoly shafts for the rear once I get this rack swapped. If you want to go the cheap route this connector is the connector for the fdu and rear e-lockers, they both just want to see 12v+ to activate whether that's an aux switch or...

For $300 more than just the coilover set they have a package with a rear trac bar and front upper control arms, I think that's what he is talking about.

That's the plan, 16 there's a couple spots where body damage is a possibility (taillights and fenders). Mainly where the v notches have washed out and basically lay you on your side at 40 degrees lol I don't think I've ever heard 16 is harder though. It's just long. 15 I'm curious to check out...

The part number in the thread title is the hoss 3.0 rack and comes with the "hoss 3" tie rods that are a little bit thicker than Hoss 1/2. The racks just need programmed out of the box because the come blank and *as of now* the easiest way is with forscan and frds using a j2534 adapter plus a...

Thats what I was hoping to hear, going to order one for myself. Thanks!

Where has everyone ordered their rack from? I'm noticing a lot of sites saying out of stock and I'm not sure if that's just because it's a special order item or if it really is out of stock at the moment. Does anyone have access to parts availability at the warehouse?

Most definitely going to be the last day 😂 15 is about as hard as I want to go without a better build lol might even be pushing it there to be honest. I'm bringing along my OG rack for backup and I have a few spares for that as well. Good to know. Yep most days I want to long travel it and...

Ive been following along and am finally planning on ordering the rack and swapping, has anyone used any of the cheaper j2534 adapters or is the $500 one as safe as it gets? Also, is everyone sticking with the supplied tie rods (has anyone broke one?) and just ordering a spare inner? Or further...

Hit an alignment shop and have them throw it on a rack, does it pull or wander at all when trying to drive straight? Caster and toe can both cause heavy steering and slow/no return to center.