Where is this $750/hour? You say "low skilled" yet most people who own a car have NO idea how to do it, or even that you should be doing it....
Well said. People like dealerships cause they "feel good" going to them. They are nice, clean, organized, and generally well ran. All this relies on...
Lotta people in this thread don't understand what it costs to run a business.... many of us can do all these things ourselves, for far less $$. Many of us are "not" normal people. Regular people with NO mechanical knowledge. Hell I'd be surprised if a "normal" person even had the tools to change...
My train of thought too, I went through and looks like the ONLY different part number is the sway bar, the bushings and end links are the same.
They height difference could have something to do with it, but the badlands is only .5" I think shorter then Sasquatch, add my .5" over and Max is...
I installed a badlands disconnect 2 years ago on my big bend. Since then, every time the body shifts (flexing the front suspension or turning hard/fast enough) I get a single "pop". If the body shifts back the other way, I get a "pop". This ONLY happens if the swaybar is engaged (limiting body...
I agree with expecting rust, especially anything aftermarket. Definately wouldn't it expect it after 8 months though.
Yeah, its very very very thin..... I've seen some pics of some newer HB reinfocements and they seem to be thicker coated.
That's what I'd expect as well. Part of it that erked me is from doing some deep diving, it sounds like some batches had different powdercoat or a different person doing it leading to a poor job
Figure I'd write a review- Truth be told I'm not super happy and previous anger demons came to life once I started pulling it off to recoat it.
From the start-Installed the tailgate reinforcement and rotopax holder July 1st 23', shipping and ordering went off without a hitch, It showed up...
to me that sounds like bushind related. Theres a few on the front end components.
One that shouldn't be overlooked is the swaybar bushings. I added an OEM stabar disconnect and was getting a popping sound for a longgg time. This winter I fluid filmed the underside and nukes the stabar...
If they are just barely rubbing, id go 3/4" body lift. Very cheap, basically visually no cons, very easy install.
You added, at Max, 1". So guessing a 3/4" body lift will do the trick. No change in anything else then.
I hate to be that guy, but you lifted and put bigger tires on. They absolutely could refuse warranty work because of this. Bigger/heavier tires= more stress on the driveline.
I'd try another dealer but don't be surprised
Can't help ya there, I swapped broncos just before I was at this point. Went through all the dealer BS. Swapped my front diff fluid and it was filthy and fair amount of metal. Pretty sure the next time I would have brought it in, with a pin point and fluid example, I would have gotten a new...
Imo I would self diagnose, going as far as disconnecting the pig tail connection for the actuator, before bringing it in. You really need to pin point it for the techs on this one
Thanks for the review, looking forward to seeing how accutune handles it. Definitely seems like a revalve may help a lot.
One thing I was really hoping for is a plusher ride at slow speeds....
1, yes if aux is on disconnect is disconnected. If you turn off disconnect is "connected"
Power to the disconnect means it will disconnect. There isn't a always on aux
Accutune-
Can you speak a little regarding your heims in the UCAs. I'm in MN and with about the massive salt we get as well as dirt working into them.
At the end of the day how do these hold up to creaking and popping vs say icons bushing? Any warranty regarding this?