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The right answer is to size the fuse to protect the wiring (i.e. fuse burns out before wiring fails), and size the wiring to handle the expected load plus a little.

THe ABS module throws a bunch of diagnostic trouble codes if there is a wheelspeed sensor failure (by design). Fix the wheelspeed sensor, the rest of the codes should go away once that is done.

2.3l auto vs. manual should have the same ABS pump and master cylinder as one another. There should be 2 lines going from the master cylinder to the ABS module/pump, then 4 lines going from the ABS module/pump to the wheels (i.e. one per wheel). My guess is that trail turn isn't available on...

Here, I fixed it for you: There's no limit to the greed and stupidity in the auto dealer industry.

Toledo Ohio area, 12,300 miles when removed 5 tire rotation every 5k miles (aka, they have been rotated 2x and marked with last installed position). Wheels are in great condition, no scratches/scuffs that I have seen. We were getting 22-24mpg on the highway with these, now ~17 with Badlands...

Stability control needs to know your speed accurately because that is one of the primary inputs (along with steering wheel angle) into it's internal bicycle model which outputs a target yaw rate which then gets compared to measured yaw rate. That yaw error is what much of the stability control...

I am sure that these are not exact numbers, but a good rule of thumb would be that the design load for recovery points would be ~1.5x gross vehicle weight rating (and likely the max GVWR on the platform) vs. hitch would be ~1.5x max trailer tow rating.

Diesel = compression ignition (it doesn't get any more mechanical than that)

Same with our two door. Not too bad, but a couple of moments of wondering if you are going to have to remove parts or not.

Primarily over low speed single wheel bumps, but if you are hitting curbs at higher speeds I would guess that would be a little worse than without the anti-roll-bar as well.

We did most of the trails at Holly Oaks without airing down the Bridgestone OE tires on our big bend. They don't look like much, but have been better on sand, dirt, and snow than I expected (though I worry about puncture resistance).

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That doesn't sound like fun, but better to make a call as PIC than become a passenger unwittingly if you think that it is time. On a more positive note, there are likely other pilots local to you that would love to have company on their lunch runs/trips/IFR currency flights - if you have the...

I think that the 2.3l is Bosch (non-EBB), and the 2.7l was VNBS (now owned by ZF) EBB. To be fair, my experience is mostly Conti, Bosch, and some odds and ends with others - so I am not 100% sure on the specifics of the 2.7l Bronco EBB system.

The mechanical connection on an EBB system is only engaged after the pedal feel simulator is fully compressed, in other words there is a gap in the mechanical connection between master cylinder and the rod that attaches to the brake pedal that is taken up only when the driver does a panic brake...

Most of you post was accurate, but unfortunately not the part above. In EBB based brake systems, your brake pedal pushes against a 'pedal feel simulator' while that happens, a displacement sensor measures how far you have pushed the brake pedal, and then the EBB pump (usually a ball screw...

Depending on location and price I could be interested (if they are 33" KO2s) as well if the original poster isn't.

Exactly.

A couple of things; 1) Advancetrak == stability control 2) If you have EBB (in all north american V6 Broncos, no idea about rest of the world), the ABS pump is your brakes - so disabling the pump will leave you with very limited ability to decelerate the vehicle. This applies whether you...

Your best bet is most likely to unscrew a single wheel speed sensor and remove it from it's hole (leave it connected to the connector/wire to keep corrosion, water, sand, etc out of the connector). That will disable ESC, ABS, and traction control, but should still retain the electronic brake...