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Which model, transmission and engine are you planning on in the bronco?

Which grabbers do you have? The a/t x and x3's are both great tires

Austin, I'm not going to recommend a tire size, because there are a ton of options from stock, to cash out your 401K, and you have a better idea of what you're looking for. As far as tire recommendations, I would suggest something like a dedicated AT tire. BFG KO2's, Falken AT3Ws, General...

Still better than the red that jeep sticks you with on a rubicon

My experience also. JK autos on 35s are ok, if you have 3.73s.

It won't hurt anything, just makes driving miserable, and tanks fuel mileage. 3.73s in an automatic jeep on 35s (JK) is tolerable. in a manual it is awful. On the JL, the stock 3.45s aren't enough, even with the 8spd auto. People do it and live with it, either because it's still "ok", they...

On a badlands, the sasquatch is only giving you wheels and tires.. I'd skip it. For the price, bolt whatever you want on there for wheels and tires, and sell your stockers to a base or black diamond buyer to recover some money. Also, if Ford designed these to work with 35" tires from the...

Does anyone know if AMB is harder than the other ford blues (like Kona). My neighbor has a 2018 Mustang GT and that may be the softest paint I've ever seen..

I think a catch can and some occasional methanol through the intake tract while it's at operating temp will eliminate 99% of this problem. Not something to lose sleep over at all.

That's the squatch before they called it squatch.

Thanks

Which steering fix did he get? The current one is a non aluminum steering box, but it was only released 3 or 4 weeks ago.

Terrain definitely plays a factor. In mud, wheel speed is king, but the 2.3 in the Bronco has more TQ than a wrangler and more gear (assuming sasquatch/7spd) so assuming the rut doesn't stop you dead or hang you up, if a wrangler can do it, the bronco should do it too.

As someone who rock climbs in a jeep, power is way less important than gearing, tire size, wheelbase and flex. There has never been a time in the rocks where I needed more power. More lift, bigger tires, more traction or a locker, sure.

On the older Dana 44s that's true. The JL/JTs are easily running 37s locked both ends on the new gen of Dana 44s. I know in the gladiator world the axle tubes themselves are 50% thicker than they were on the JKs. I wheel with a guy that runs 38s on his JT Rubicon, and he isn't nice to it.

With 4.70 gears, the 2.3 will be fine. I wouldn't give that a second thought.

Manual disco's are a bit of a pain if you've been deep in the mud, but for everything else, 30 seconds to pull 2 pins is way better than $750 to fix the rubi bar when they break..

Body on frame doesn't need anything to tie the strut tops together.

I see you are in Florida, so I'm going to ask based on that. Why a 12" wide wheel? I air way down in sand or rocks, so if you are planning on some beach/dune fun, you'd be more capable with a 10" wheel. If you're doing it for looks, that's cool. I was just curious.

If you were driving in deep snow, or a slick sleet/snow/ice mix and the tires were constantly losing traction, traction control that's using your brakes to fake the open diff into sending traction to both tires will heat up your brakes fast. A rear locker in that situation is the right answer.