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I just finished installing my HOSS 3.0 rack today, along with a diff drop from Broken Innovation here on the forum. I used the ProCal to program it but I ran into the same problem that Oldhippie had. For some reason ProCal refused to write the PSCM As-Built settings, and I'd end up with U1110...

I want to share my experience here in case others have this same issue. I had C1110 and U2100 in my PSCM after attempting with the ProCal method. It seemed no matter what it wasn't writing the As Built info after attempting multiple times. I was able to fix this by loading factory As Built data...

In a rollover:

Do you feel this adds any structural rigidity? I like the grab bar on the rear passenger side, but I really want something that adds some cross brace stiffness too. This doesn't seem that structural compared to others from the looks of it.

I've done some rock crawling and I've found my comfort limits. Chinaman Gulch in Buena Vista is my maximum difficult that I'd like to go for a long time. My Bronco is my daily so I can't go too extreme. I have no interest in doing something like Moab Pritchett Canyon difficulty. I suspect I'll...

I could do the FDRS route, but don't want to buy the connector and license if I don't need to. I have forscan and a wildtrak 3.0 vin ready to go though.

I just put in my order for the M-3200-WT. I plan on using my ProCal tuner to program it. I saw someone on Bronco Nation mention that his steering wouldn't work with the engine performance tune, but it would work with the stock tune. Has anyone else had this issue with the ProCal 4 programmer?

Yeah I'm thinking the 3.0 rack first as well. It has the larger motor and tie rods, and I can still do the 74Weld stage 1 (or 2) kit in the future. There have been plenty of times in Moab where felt like I maxed out the 2.0 motor strength trying to turn (especially with front lockers) even just...

The Hoss 3.0 steering rack is around the same price range as 74Weld's stage one upgrade kit for the Hoss 2.0/3.0. If I have the budget to do only one or the other, what is everyone's opinion on the two options? Which would you recommend I go with? My use-case is moderate lift on 37s with...

Thanks for posting this. I was wondering about this as well because I had a sun shade that help keep the top out of the back seat passenger's faces, but I wanted to take that off and was pretty annoyed when I was reminded about this problem. I'll try your tip next time I flip it back.

I'd buy it in a heartbeat if they had a version compatible with the Bestop. :(

Added the 4WP rear bumper and some 3" pod lights with red backlights that turn on with the marker lights. Front bumper is in progress along with factory fog switch. Don't mind the gap above the bumper, I have a 1/2" body lift.

Got the rear bumper just about done. I set up my pod lights to have their red backlight on with the marker lights, and the main beams currently on with reverse, but I have the factory front/rear fog light switch on the way, and am going to set their main beam to be on with the rear fog button...

I like your B-bow brace, very clean and simple. Who makes it?

I have a Bestop on my 4 door, no conflicts at all with the C-bow brace. Do you mean there's a conflict with the B-bow?

Thanks for verifying that! I'm adding a diff drop soon so I may look into adding a spacer to get just a little be more lift back out of them after that depending on CV angles.

Mine are frame mounted as well. I've come down on my Shrockworks sliders so hard they flexed up into the pinch welds. I think having more than 2 supports will help reduce the chances of that. I was being pretty aggressive the time it happened. I've since added a 1/2" body spacer so my gap is...

Your rock sliders look very similar to my Shrockworks. I love the shape and tread plate style, but I wish they had more than 2 frame mounts each. The bumper is nice and clean, I like it!

Finishing up the rear bumper license plate relocation now. There a few bits in the instructions that skip some details. The parking sensor came with these ring spacer things. Completely useless because they were hollow. Thankfully I had some thick rubber bumpers from my winch mount that worked...

Thanks for sharing that. The wording is still open to interpretation. The instructions already say not to use the top area of the threads, so it seems weird that he would reference 19mm from the top of the threads and not from where the instructions say. Maybe he implied from the max of where...