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Thank you for the video. That is a good addition. A radio we are looking at does not have a removable face and as you mentioned so many other possible mounting locations might be less than ideal. I enjoyed this!

The new 2024 North American Land Cruiser we are speaking about is very different than what Japan and Australia are talking about when they say new 2024 Land Cruiser. I'd enjoy seeing a test between the North American Land cruiser and the truer to heritage Japan version...

Is this an issue that needs to get fixed? Or, is it just a noise that is OK?

On the NAPA and Tricky Dicky Trickflate compressors they use M12 thread. We used M12 threaded brass going into the compressor. Then used what ever we needed to get to a standard air hose connector. I think the initial piece we needed is a M12 to 3/8 brass adapter.

Same thing happened on my Black Diamond with factory wheels. Took it back to the dealer and they re-balanced and then put a rubberized sticky tape (Gorilla or Flex Shield) over the weights. So far it is holding.

#1 Suzuki 400 DRZ...went everywhere and never broke, #2 1981 Jeep CJ5.....top and doors came off in 45 seconds, windshield came down it you wanted, very little plastic anywhere and once you fixed the broken parts it ran forever, #3 Toyota FJ40 2 Door Land Cruiser.....just fantastic except on...

No answers but mine does the same....when I connect a battery tender. Seems when I'm working around it there are other various sounds not just from the front engine area. Clicks, brief hums, etc...

But this won't do 120!

I believe you are needing an SO-239 mount that accepts a PL-259 connector. One place to look. https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-categories/antennas-mounts/mobile-antenna-mounts/pl-259-type-mounts Some places call it a UHF connector...

Correction for the video: This is a 4 door Land Cruiser

I think you could charge it and then disconnect the negative cable, leaving the battery in the Bronco. The battery should last for months if nothing in the energy hungry Bronco is connected to it.

When you pull the cover off there are some places on the bottom of the differential that create small pockets.. It would be iffy for a pump to be able to reach the very bottom of the differential cavity to pull the fluid out of the little pockets. These pockets are the very places the gunk sinks...

The factory gasket is a good one! Is it known that the factory fits this cover? I ask because the ARB cover looks to be a little smaller than the factory. At least some pics.

Is there a pre-made gasket for this cover? I never seem to made a leak free gasket if I have to use goop from a tube to make one.

BadlandsA51 I do agree with that assessment. However, the aftermarket "stuff" is a large part of what makes our Bronco so enjoyable. With our new battery, day 1 began with a full charge with an AGM charger. We will let the battery live it's device addicted life on electrical support...

When I am puttering around in the garage near the Bronco it makes little clicks and some very short quite buzzes. Maybe blind spot indicators? Maybe other proximity sensors. Point being is this thing sounds as if it is always on and always perkalating.

RSE did not say how much draw is on going, but I did not ask. Most likely their set up is just a contributor to battery drain and not the cause.

Rock Slide said they do not have a relay or other fix that will limit battery draw. If Bronco is sitting for 2 weeks plus, they recommend unpluging. A good battery maintainer, even a more expensive one, is 1/3 or less the cost of a new battery.

My Ford replacement battery showed it is made in Germany. I could not see very much info on the original factory battery. Other than them being the same ID number (size code) there was not much more. I do not know what brands are made in Germany but hopefully this one will be of good...