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Interesting that they don’t have an obvious way that boost changes with octane. It’s observably different between 87 and 93 on the stock tune with it actually being lower on 93. In guessing they’re using driver requested torque in part of the calculation and with the extra timing on higher...

Does ford use two timing and boost maps and linear interpolation? Or are they in the quadratic/multivariate equation camp for octane compensation?

The same way every ecu has done it since the 90s. Monitor the knock sensor. Different brands will use different triggers to attempt to run more ignition advance and may have different strategies for what they do with their estimate octane value. Maybe panda can tell you what ford do, I can only...

except you know, ford explicitly stating different hp and torque numbers for 87 and 91+. And the sound difference at low rpm and high load that even Hellen Keller could hear. And the different numbers on the factory boost gauge. Need I go on?

If only they would put the bronco 7 speed in the Ranger and keep the 7k tow rating.

Is there any reason you didn't tap into the power going to the USB model itself? Or is ford being actually crappy and generating the 5v really far away from the port and sending it there?

The collision assist blocked is by far the most annoying in the winter. Not only does it come on, sometimes multiple times a drive, but it also puts a notification in the ford app so when your wife sees a collision notification she calls in a panic to make sure you’re ok.

You're shitting me. They waited this long and the fix for a lot of people is going to be siliconing them and a new rock shield? I blasted the hell out of mine with wool wax when we first got it and they're still coated a year and a half later. I'll be waiting until I'm certain they're rusty.

Old thread but, do any of these combos still allow the backup sensor to work when the rack is folded? I hate my velocirax for not being able to get j the back and it blocking the backup sensor with no bikes installed.

Old thread but, does your combo still allow the backup sensor to work when the rack is folded?

Yup. If it maintained the 7k point tow rating of the automatic truck I’d be at the dealer today to trade in my f150.

Yeah you see that rectangular box in the cord? That’s the thing that destroys radio reception that I’m trying to avoid.

Thanks! Hopefully the next person trying to see if our usb-c ports will do 12v or any type of pd standard will find this thread on Google.

That will only work if the usb on the dash outputs 12v as an option, which is what I’m trying to determine with this thread before I buy an adapter.

So is that a for the fact that the lux usb-c don’t support usb-c standard voltages outside of 5v? But I could switch it to an aftermarket port like non-lux owners use that actually supports 12v and even 28v?

Anything in the same zip code as the windshield?

Which standards do the USB-C ports support, both the normal ones and the Lux specific ones in the dash? Are they 5v only or do they also support 12v? I would like to get away from one of the usb to 12v socket adapters that use a voltage booster to get from 5v to 12v for my radar detector since...

as a few of us have said in the thread. If you were forced to replace your shocks with aftermarket ones at your own expense to remediate the issue you call then phone number on your warranty letter and negotiate reimbursement with ford that will be paid to you by your dealer.

Call the number on your recall form. You work that out with ford and your dealer will cut the check.

The new info in mine is that it specifically states that ford has NOT instructed us to stop driving, so liability on our parts for parts hitting other vehicles should be absolved.