OK AUDIOPHILES, what do we think of this STEREO BUILPLAN?

[MarkInOhio]

I'm not familiar with the bose system or Goose Gear. Essentially budget is key. I just did an all aftermarket system for about $2000. Though was able to use the sub from my previous DD.

If you don't want to take up any room, I've read it's not too much work to get an 8" in the factory location. Some have gotten a 10" in there. Custom enclosures are available. That will likely be fine if you're not a bass head and just want it to sound as good as possible without losing storage.

So on that note, you're looking at whatever will fit in the OEM locations. Want to spend more money? Sure, you can find a high end shop to put components in custom encloseures everywhere.

For an amp, the 5/6 channel makes sense. Multiple amps will sound better. Often people will do a separate sub amp. Though you have to figure out where to put everything. I started with a JL amp. It wouldn't fit under the drivers seat, so went to an Audison amp that would. You can tuck them behind panels, that is more labor.

A DSP is another way to get better sound. You really can't call it high end without a DSP. So again, more money. Maybe not necessary for a non-audiophile.

So basic, you have a 5 ch amp, audiocontrol LC7, and speakers. I see no reason to upgrade the rear pods to 6.5". I'd prefer keep the front and rear the same. Also figure front stage is more important with audio. So maybe I'd be interested if there was some sort of front upgrade pod to 6.5". Pass on just the rear, it's just fill.

The Audiocontrol Stinger tailgate sub is a good option to not lose much space:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-U1tYj...eXuKw3g3irC40xx5nCt0P2yEeJIBdFHcaAjOoEALw_wcB

Thanks for the response - I think you are offering some very good advice. BTW, I apparently had a brain fart on my initial post and said "Bose" instead of "B&O". I've edited the post to fix that.

Here is the Goose Gear package we have, except we've flipped it so the "kitchen" module is on the driver's side.

The suggested tailgate sub won't work for us. We have a fold-down table in that location, and even if we didn't, it wouldn't fit with the Goose Gear stuff. I'm wondering if I could put a sub on top of the kitchen module? I'll post a picture a little later today when I get a chance and maybe I can get some suggestions. If I can install a sub, should that be powered by a channel on the "main" amp, or should it have it's own? On the amp subject, is bi-amping (dash or dash and doors, not the rears) worthwhile or a waste in the Bronco?

What are some good suggestions for a DSP?

Do I retain (and upgrade) the front center speaker, or abandon it? The reason I ask is that I've seen some plug-and-play systems offered for the Bronco that eliminate it. I'm guessing this is due to limitations in the number of channels that con be processed by various equipment options.

Thanks again for the advice.

Mark

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[GRNMACHINE]

Recently added Kicker Marine speakers and SSV Pods. Purchased from Crutchfield, decades long customer of them and their customer service is second to none. Installed Kicker 4" in dash 6.75" Kickers in kick panel I had from previous vehicle, sound difference was decent not blow your socks off by any means. The marine speakers were a huge difference in sound quality. The speakers are heavier and built better than the kick panel speakers, big upgrade over Ford 4" speakers. To me, upgrading to bigger speakers on the roll bar was a no brainer and hearing more bass last nite confirmed it. So far I have made zero changes in Forscan, read somewhere the 25-26 dont need forscan changes, whether true or not I am not sure. Re wiring, based on my 30 minute conversation with Joe from plugandplaykits I would purchase from him along with amp if you are going the Kicker route. He is the originator of the plug and play, other versions are copies from what I have read and been told. Joe is the owner, answered on the 3rd ring himself and offered alot of info and zero sales push. He felt a new amp he sells: Musway has double power and you can fine tune for about $50 more. I am not familiar with brand at all, many new names on the market. Re your mechanic, a car mechanic may not be best option to install custom wiring if he has no experience. Plug and play kits lessen the likelihood of wiring mistakes etc and easy enough for average DIY guy. It should be cheaper in labor as well. As all the others have stated, the Hertz, Audison, MB etc will be alot better than what I installed and considerably more higher end. Whatever you choose, every option you mentioned and was recommended will be a noticeable upgrade to stock. I am still on fence with adding amp, too many aftermarket options and upgrades out there I want but dont need... Looking forward to following and seeing what you install.

 

[Wyld2dr]

Amp: $475
Kicker Plug n Play 200.4 Key Amp Bundle by Platinum Solutions

That website is hilarious. It's maybe 25% of the way setup, I'd order that elsewhere.

 

[T800]

Thanks for the response - I think you are offering some very good advice. BTW, I apparently had a brain fart on my initial post and said "Bose" instead of "B&O". I've edited the post to fix that.

Here is the Goose Gear package we have, except we've flipped it so the "kitchen" module is on the driver's side.

The suggested tailgate sub won't work for us. We have a fold-down table in that location, and even if we didn't, it wouldn't fit with the Goose Gear stuff. I'm wondering if I could put a sub on top of the kitchen module? I'll post a picture a little later today when I get a chance and maybe I can get some suggestions. If I can install a sub, should that be powered by a channel on the "main" amp, or should it have it's own? On the amp subject, is bi-amping (dash or dash and doors, not the rears) worthwhile or a waste in the Bronco?

What are some good suggestions for a DSP?

Do I retain (and upgrade) the front center speaker, or abandon it? The reason I ask is that I've seen some plug-and-play systems offered for the Bronco that eliminate it. I'm guessing this is due to limitations in the number of channels that con be processed by various equipment options.

Thanks again for the advice.

Mark

Ok, makes sense with B&O and not Bose. From your post, I just assumed the Raptor is different...

So with that Goose Gear package, that does limit your space for the sub. If the large area of the rear is not covered on the passenger side, that is where the OEM sub is. Though if you have other stuff there, might be a pain to get to.

You can put the sub literally anywhere it will fit. Bass is non-directional (mids and highs are VERY directional). So you can have just one sub in a corner and it won't matter. I believe I saw someone that has a hooke road trail rack back there, put the sub (and/or other speakers) on top. You could also probably find something that mounts to the roll bar. Probably more likely to find an 8" for that.

Regarding channels and amps: If you have a 5 or 6 channel amp, the 5/6 channel is for the sub. That eliminates the need for a second amp. Though a seperate amp would sound better. So could do a 4 channel amp for mids and highs, mono block (1 channel) amp for the sub. Of course, have to figure out where to put everything. Easy to find a single 6 channel that fits under the drivers seat (where mine is). Not sure where else you can put one unless it's behind panels in the rear. I believe the passenger side front isn't an even surface, so don't think an amp can go there. Some also don't like an amp on the floor in an offroad rig because it can get dirty. So something to consider. More is better, but where do you put it?

My current and last DD were based on one 5 or 6 channel. The current is 6 channel. You bridge (combine) 5 and 6 to make one channel for the amp. If it has 5 instead of 6, that is fine too.

For the center speaker, I would just eliminate it. It's not a 'real' center channel anyway. A real center channel would be two speakers in the center. The one closest to the driver would be the 'right' side. The one next to it would be 'left' side. Really not necessary unless you go much higher end. Most would not notice a center channel. They just do it with the 'premium' B&O so they can have a higher speaker count. Absolutely worthless which such a crappy, single speaker with even worse tuning and power.

DSP - I've never had one. It wasn't really 'a thing' back in the early 90's when I would refer to myself as an audiophile. Active crossover was 'the thing' back then. So figure the same people that make higher quality amps are also going to make DSP's. You can also get an amp with a DSP built in. If you get a stand alone DSP, again, where is it going to go?

 

[T800]

Recently added Kicker Marine speakers and SSV Pods. Purchased from Crutchfield, decades long customer of them and their customer service is second to none. Installed Kicker 4" in dash 6.75" Kickers in kick panel I had from previous vehicle, sound difference was decent not blow your socks off by any means. The marine speakers were a huge difference in sound quality. The speakers are heavier and built better than the kick panel speakers, big upgrade over Ford 4" speakers. To me, upgrading to bigger speakers on the roll bar was a no brainer and hearing more bass last nite confirmed it. So far I have made zero changes in Forscan, read somewhere the 25-26 dont need forscan changes, whether true or not I am not sure. Re wiring, based on my 30 minute conversation with Joe from plugandplaykits I would purchase from him along with amp if you are going the Kicker route. He is the originator of the plug and play, other versions are copies from what I have read and been told. Joe is the owner, answered on the 3rd ring himself and offered alot of info and zero sales push. He felt a new amp he sells: Musa has double power and you can fine tune for about $50 more. I am not familiar with brand at all, many new names on the market. Re your mechanic, a car mechanic may not be best option to install custom wiring if he has no experience. Plug and play kits lessen the likelihood of wiring mistakes etc and easy enough for average DIY guy. It should be cheaper in labor as well. As all the others have stated, the Hertz, Audison, MB etc will be alot better than what I installed and considerably more higher end. Whatever you choose, every option you mentioned and was recommended will be a noticeable upgrade to stock. I am still on fence with adding amp, too many aftermarket options and upgrades out there I want but dont need... Looking forward to following and seeing what you install.

The largest difference you can make is installing an amp. You can't really begin to have it sound good without one. Though opinions are subjective. If it sounds 'good enough' then that's up to you. For the most part, you get what you pay for.

For Forscan, I believe the rear is not setup correctly. Easiest to turn off the EQ which sets everything to full range. Probably not necessary if you add an amp.

 

[GRNMACHINE]

T800, thanks for the info, no disagreement at all. My plan was to add the Kicker Key, had to rethink that when I had discussion with Joe (plug and play) about its lower power rating and other options. The price, ability to mount it on plate under steering wheel, and plug and play ease of install made it very attractive. It is never good to spend time and money on a project, then have regrets about wanting something better.

 

[MKZoom]

there is a lot of info swirling around in here, and im not really sure where exactly everyone is in their planning process but i would offer another word of caution on the Kicker Key, while it does act as a step up from a typical "add an amp" setup, its fairly severely compromised and often ends up not being worth the money when a real DSP amp for all the channels can be had for not much more.

because everyone's idea of "affordable" and "good enough" are different, listening to something in person and upgrading in stages are great pieces of advice.

 

[Brian_B]

when a real DSP amp for all the channels can be had for not much more.

What do you have in mind here? Used market prices? About the cheapest 4 channel DSP amps I know of run in the $600-800 range, and prices go up steep and quickly. But maybe I don’t know the right brands

 

[T800]

there is a lot of info swirling around in here, and im not really sure where exactly everyone is in their planning process but i would offer another word of caution on the Kicker Key, while it does act as a step up from a typical "add an amp" setup, its fairly severely compromised and often ends up not being worth the money when a real DSP amp for all the channels can be had for not much more.

because everyone's idea of "affordable" and "good enough" are different, listening to something in person and upgrading in stages are great pieces of advice.

It fills a gap because it's easy to install vs. a 'normal' amp that requires someone knows what they're doing, run power to the battery, etc. I have read that it makes more sense to set it up to just run the front speakers, but that gets more into expert territory with knowing how to do that.

I see it as better than nothing, but doesn't really compare to a standard amp setup. One video referred to it as a 'line driver' not an amp.

 

[MKZoom]

What do you have in mind here? Used market prices? About the cheapest 4 channel DSP amps I know of run in the $600-800 range, and prices go up steep and quickly. But maybe I don’t know the right brands

the basic 4 channel kicker key is only a bit cheaper than the JBL DSP, which has its drawbacks too, but its more powerful and configurable from an eq perspective.

if you are looking used, 6 and 8 channel Arc and helix stuff exists used in decent condition around 400ish and up which are pretty fully featured.

i do understand the other posters point that its an In between, and i agree it serves that use case. i just think with modern vehicles and the complexity you will likely want to conquer, a bit more is needed and worth the few bucks extra.

id especially look for something that can easily handle a 3 way up front considering the speaker locations the bronco has, a three way is more or less mandatory in my opinion.

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