OK AUDIOPHILES, what do we think of this STEREO BUILPLAN?

[rodmf]

First off, I don't know anything about the technicals of stereos but I'm learning a little.
Love music and love a nice clear sound. This factory system is just not doin it.
--Looking to upgrade the factory system but not go overboard.
--I want a clean bright sound in the front with some warmth in the back.
--Not a big thump thump bass guy.

I "did my own research" and came up with this plan:
--Looking to see if this all fits together technically. Does the plan have any technical problems?
--Do I need an amp? From what I'm reading I think so, but but not really sure I can explain why haha.
--And looking to see what ppl think of the sound improvement I'll get for the money.

Amp: $475
Kicker Plug n Play 200.4 Key Amp Bundle by Platinum Solutions

Dash: $210
Focal ICU 100

Front Kickers: $120
Focal RCX 165

Rear Pods: $90
JBL Club 422F

That adds up to $895 in parts.
If this plan is a go, I'd look to hire someone for the labor.
If anyone can give me a rec in SE Michigan, that'd be great.

Thanks!

Sponsored

 

[Brian_B]

I think it looks fine.
I don't know that vendor, but the bundle looks familiar, and doesn't look like anything technically wrong with it and looks identical to Trail 7 kit. I'd recommend at least talking to @plugnplaykits before placing your order. His Kit 11 is a known-to-work quantity and he lurks around here for support.

https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41130698473662

You will probably still want to do something with the subwoofer - especially after waking up the main channels. But you can pretty easily add that in later on if/when you feel like it.

Be sure to read up on this thread:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/kicker-key-200-4-done-correctly.123015/

 

[rodmf]

Wow! Thanks so much. Looking now.

 

[ducksface]

I think you have a 75db baseline and unless you're listening to that stereo with the truck turned off;
You have a 75db cacophonic baseline to contend with.

 

[Alassise]

First off, I don't know anything about the technicals of stereos but I'm learning a little.
Love music and love a nice clear sound. This factory system is just not doin it.
--Looking to upgrade the factory system but not go overboard.
--I want a clean bright sound in the front with some warmth in the back.
--Not a big thump thump bass guy.

I "did my own research" and came up with this plan:
--Looking to see if this all fits together technically. Does the plan have any technical problems?
--Do I need an amp? From what I'm reading I think so, but but not really sure I can explain why haha.
--And looking to see what ppl think of the sound improvement I'll get for the money.

Amp: $475
Kicker Plug n Play 200.4 Key Amp Bundle by Platinum Solutions

Dash: $210
Focal ICU 100

Front Kickers: $120
Focal RCX 165

Rear Pods: $90
JBL Club 422F

That adds up to $895 in parts.
If this plan is a go, I'd look to hire someone for the labor.
If anyone can give me a rec in SE Michigan, that'd be great.

Thanks!

Check Crutchfield for all the items you want/need. You might be able to save some money. Also, they will show you what fits and additional stuff needed to plug the amp. In addition, you can hear some of the speakers and compare how they sound if you have some headphones. It gives you a general idea of how bright or not they might sound.

IME get a better amp that can push clear sound and a channel for a woofer (you will add one in the future). The front stage is the most important part of the system, so great quality speakers will get you what you are looking for. Focals are very bright and for the price, I believe you can find a better option (i.e. JL/Hertz).

There are not a lot of shops that will likely not touch your vehicle if you bring the parts. Installation expertise is very important and a good shop will ensure a quality sound system. Research your area. Cheap ends up being costly in the long run.

 

[Doc TOC]

One of my first jobs out of high school was working in a high-end car audio shop . I admit I was clueless when I first started. What I learned was most people going through a 1st round of upgrading had no idea what they were doing and went about it in the wrong way. 99% start at the technical end ("I read that ...") before they begin addressing the hearing experience. And it is the latter that motivated them to start with!

I would flip your quest the other way around. You are kind of cart before the horse.

Go to a higher end car audio shop. They will spend the time with you (and your spouse if you care) figuring out what type of audio response you are seeking.
Tell them what you listen to, sound levels (loud, soft), windows up/down, blah, blah.
They will explain how and what to get you there.

It was shop practice to have potential customers listen to the vehicles we were working on and explain what we were doing. That last part is important for you - translating what you are asking for into an actual hearing-it experience. We all listen to different music in different scenarios with different hearing capabilities (yeah - our ears interpret sound differently from others - like the old lady in church who consistently sings sharp and 2 beats off).

You don't have to buy from the shop; but the listening experience, and how they got to it, is important. You will understand what you are looking for in audio response, in a Bronco interior, with loud tires and/or open windows rolling down the highway.

THEN, you can get into the technical. Cabin dampening, 3D sound placement, THD, channels, drivers, dynamic range, DSP, off-axis response, cross-over slopes, time alignment, phase balancing - as techy as you want them to be.

Otherwise, you are buying someone else's experience on their budget.
I found the smart buyers who do it in stages start with conditioning the cabin, then invest in the amp/channels/DSP technical, then onto the speakers.

How you drive a speaker is more important than the speaker spec itself.
Crappy speakers with good signal sound better. Awesome speakers with crappy drivers just sound crappy. It's that simple.

And remember, fusing and wiring matters. It's quite common that cars get burnt up because some idiot turned an under-gauged run into a 4 foot heating element.

You can be a simpleton with a simpleton system, or your can be an educated listener with an affordable, but quality based solution.

Good luck. I hope your sound journey makes your Bronco a very enjoyable ride.

 

[23OBX2.7]

We don't know what your current system is....however, Id take the $900 buy a sub amp with integrated LOC and and loaded sub or just a powered loaded sub from Audison or whoever as first step.

Current plan is a waste of money.

 

[rodmf]

I think you have a 75db baseline and unless you're listening to that stereo with the truck turned off;
You have a 75db cacophonic baseline to contend with.

Hi, thank you. I know nothing about audio tech. Can you explain what I have to contend with?

Check Crutchfield for all the items you want/need. You might be able to save some money. Also, they will show you what fits and additional stuff needed to plug the amp. In addition, you can hear some of the speakers and compare how they sound if you have some headphones. It gives you a general idea of how bright or not they might sound.

IME get a better amp that can push clear sound and a channel for a woofer (you will add one in the future). The front stage is the most important part of the system, so great quality speakers will get you what you are looking for. Focals are very bright and for the price, I believe you can find a better option (i.e. JL/Hertz).

There are not a lot of shops that will likely not touch your vehicle if you bring the parts. Installation expertise is very important and a good shop will ensure a quality sound system. Research your area. Cheap ends up being costly in the long run.

This is helpful, thanks. I’m comparing my choices to JL and Hertz.
And re install: a handyman I’ve hired a few times also runs a car restoration business. I described the job and he said he can do it so I’m good there now (was looking for someone like this; not a shop for the reason you described).

 

[rodmf]

One of my first jobs out of high school was working in a high-end car audio shop . I admit I was clueless when I first started. What I learned was most people going through a 1st round of upgrading had no idea what they were doing and went about it in the wrong way. 99% start at the technical end ("I read that ...") before they begin addressing the hearing experience. And it is the latter that motivated them to start with!

I would flip your quest the other way around. You are kind of cart before the horse.

Go to a higher end car audio shop. They will spend the time with you (and your spouse if you care) figuring out what type of audio response you are seeking.
Tell them what you listen to, sound levels (loud, soft), windows up/down, blah, blah.
They will explain how and what to get you there.

It was shop practice to have potential customers listen to the vehicles we were working on and explain what we were doing. That last part is important for you - translating what you are asking for into an actual hearing-it experience. We all listen to different music in different scenarios with different hearing capabilities (yeah - our ears interpret sound differently from others - like the old lady in church who consistently sings sharp and 2 beats off).

You don't have to buy from the shop; but the listening experience, and how they got to it, is important. You will understand what you are looking for in audio response, in a Bronco interior, with loud tires and/or open windows rolling down the highway.

THEN, you can get into the technical. Cabin dampening, 3D sound placement, THD, channels, drivers, dynamic range, DSP, off-axis response, cross-over slopes, time alignment, phase balancing - as techy as you want them to be.

Otherwise, you are buying someone else's experience on their budget.
I found the smart buyers who do it in stages start with conditioning the cabin, then invest in the amp/channels/DSP technical, then onto the speakers.

How you drive a speaker is more important than the speaker spec itself.
Crappy speakers with good signal sound better. Awesome speakers with crappy drivers just sound crappy. It's that simple.

And remember, fusing and wiring matters. It's quite common that cars get burnt up because some idiot turned an under-gauged run into a 4 foot heating element.

You can be a simpleton with a simpleton system, or your can be an educated listener with an affordable, but quality based solution.

Good luck. I hope your sound journey makes your Bronco a very enjoyable ride.

Great post. Thanks for taking the time and offering your expert insight. I’m aiming for a noticeable upgrade but a simple plan to keep the costs down. Not sure I can do all the sound seasoning, etc. But your point about getting out there to test the sounds really resonated. That’s now part of my plan.

 

[Brian_B]

I had a post earlier, but will give my opinion here:

Audio is very much about your personal taste, and your budget.

What one person thinks sounds great, another may think sounds like trash. What one person can easily afford, another may think it's a waste of money.

You'll find as many such different opinions as there are members on these forums.

A lot of folks have a very similar setup here - of posts that I've read on the threads, the vast majority seem to be using the Kicker amp, and many are perfectly happy with it. It has a DSP, but the biggest drawback is that it's only adjustable via the Autotune process - you don't get much ability to perform any customization with it. It will, however, adjust the timing and basic acoustics, and seems to do ok in that regard, but it isn't a fully programmable DSP amp. In that regard, it's a significant step up from a basic amplifier with no DSP capability at all.

I haven't seen many with Focal speakers, but I've heard of the brand, and I agree with most other folks on this thread - a good amp can make bad speakers sound decent, but great speakers can't make a bad amp sound good.

 

[rodmf]

Thanks Brian. Great points. Yep, I think my budget and needs translates to the Kicker plug and play amp. Your post confirms that for me

Regarding speakers: a couple of posters thought Focal was TOO bright. I’ve since listened to some Hertz through that cool Crutchfield feature and that matches the sound I’m looking for.

Current question in my mind is Hertz vs Audison. I’ve learned they’re built by the same Italian company and that Audison might be a little step up.

Looking for ease of install. I’ve lined up a guy who works out of his garage. He works on cars but not usually audio. Says he can do it but I don’t want to complicate things for him.

 

[Brian_B]

Current question in my mind is Hertz vs Audison. I’ve learned they’re built by the same Italian company and that Audison might be a little step up.

I would agree with that. Audison is the "premier" branding.

If you are considering the Bi-Amp approach from @AZCoyote , the Hertz will serve you better. They have a great efficiency (and great price), no-hassle fitment, and will work very well with one channel being pushed by the factory head unit.

Honestly, even if you aren't doing the Bi-Amp approach, I'd still consider Hertz unless you are thinking of going with a full component setup, and have the multi-channel amp to drive them.

 

[Doc TOC]

You are not looking for a reader to validate your decision. You are looking for the right way to evaluate your situation. Not saying they are wrong! Kicker is satisfying for many people. But there are many options out there still within a reasonable budget.

Your ear structure and cochlea (the internal snail looking thing), have more to do with what you "hear" than anything else - that is why we all hear music differently. Same frequencies produced, different nerve ending preferences to attenuation and amplitude pickup.

@rodmf I have 2 brothers in MI.
Both said to check out Car Tunes for the audio speaker booth. They are sprinkled around the state.

Also worth a drive to Sounds of Northville. They can talk amps and DSP with you.
For example, Audio Control D-4.800, for about $250 more will give you a fully programmable DSP and more amps to drive with.

Since you are not doing the installation, doesn't matter it's not "plug-n-play". And don't over think wiring. Plug and Play is if you are a neophite doing the work; and you said you are looking for an installer. Even though there are custom harnesses, it is not hard to make one. Did that many, many times. Usually took a factory harness and spliced 2-4 short-run wires. The radio output is the radio output. No brainer. No magic.

Remember this:
Factory radio -> programmable DSP -> quality 4 channel amp with watts -> quality speakers

will ALWAYS produce a way better, customizable sound than:

Factory radio -> minimal DSP -> decent 4 channel minimum amps -> expensive speakers

Your hearing, music choice, and listening environment will change over time. Don't under estimate how stepping up the first time changes your brain's perception of sound in the Bronco. You will want to step up again, until you "tune it in". That is why you started this in the first place.

A programmable DSP is worth every penny you spend on it. Buy once, cry once.
And you will have the ability to adapt down the road without spending more money.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Hi, thank you. I know nothing about audio tech. Can you explain what I have to contend with?

This is helpful, thanks. I’m comparing my choices to JL and Hertz.
And re install: a handyman I’ve hired a few times also runs a car restoration business. I described the job and he said he can do it so I’m good there now (was looking for someone like this; not a shop for the reason you described).

Bothe Hertz and Audison are excellent. I have used Audison DSP amps which was excellent, and currently use Hertz MPBX300S2 sub box and MP 163.3 kick speakers ( pulled from Mustang) as well as Audison MP in the pods.

For the Bronco on a fresh build I'd just get everything Audison because it's one of the few brands you can source 4" and 6.5" woofers along with 4" coax, as well as options for powered sub enclosures that has integrated LOC so it's plug and play into any source, as well and various other sub options and amps. It all works together seamlessly with Audison focusing on system integration VS Hertz that's more focused on components and custom builds.

If you go to diyobileaudio you can pick up a lot of good stuff like Hertz MP and ML plus Audison Prima very cheap as audio builders graduate to exotic brands or just change minds on what using. There is also a lot of niche brands that are great quality at a fraction of the price of new popular brands.

In the end a good sub will deliver best immediate return.

 

[rodmf]

Sorry, what’s the Bi-amp approach?

You are not looking for a reader to validate your decision. You are looking for the right way to evaluate your situation. Not saying they are wrong! Kicker is satisfying for many people. But there are many options out there still within a reasonable budget.

Your ear structure and cochlea (the internal snail looking thing), have more to do with what you "hear" than anything else - that is why we all hear music differently. Same frequencies produced, different nerve ending preferences to attenuation and amplitude pickup.

@rodmf I have 2 brothers in MI.
Both said to check out Car Tunes for the audio speaker booth. They are sprinkled around the state.

Also worth a drive to Sounds of Northville. They can talk amps and DSP with you.
For example, Audio Control D-4.800, for about $250 more will give you a fully programmable DSP and more amps to drive with.

Since you are not doing the installation, doesn't matter it's not "plug-n-play". And don't over think wiring. Plug and Play is if you are a neophite doing the work; and you said you are looking for an installer. Even though there are custom harnesses, it is not hard to make one. Did that many, many times. Usually took a factory harness and spliced 2-4 short-run wires. The radio output is the radio output. No brainer. No magic.

Remember this:
Factory radio -> programmable DSP -> quality 4 channel amp with watts -> quality speakers

will ALWAYS produce a way better, customizable sound than:

Factory radio -> minimal DSP -> decent 4 channel minimum amps -> expensive speakers

Your hearing, music choice, and listening environment will change over time. Don't under estimate how stepping up the first time changes your brain's perception of sound in the Bronco. You will want to step up again, until you "tune it in". That is why you started this in the first place.

A programmable DSP is worth every penny you spend on it. Buy once, cry once.
And you will have the ability to adapt down the road without spending more money.

You are not looking for a reader to validate your decision. You are looking for the right way to evaluate your situation. Not saying they are wrong! Kicker is satisfying for many people. But there are many options out there still within a reasonable budget.

Your ear structure and cochlea (the internal snail looking thing), have more to do with what you "hear" than anything else - that is why we all hear music differently. Same frequencies produced, different nerve ending preferences to attenuation and amplitude pickup.

@rodmf I have 2 brothers in MI.
Both said to check out Car Tunes for the audio speaker booth. They are sprinkled around the state.

Also worth a drive to Sounds of Northville. They can talk amps and DSP with you.
For example, Audio Control D-4.800, for about $250 more will give you a fully programmable DSP and more amps to drive with.

Since you are not doing the installation, doesn't matter it's not "plug-n-play". And don't over think wiring. Plug and Play is if you are a neophite doing the work; and you said you are looking for an installer. Even though there are custom harnesses, it is not hard to make one. Did that many, many times. Usually took a factory harness and spliced 2-4 short-run wires. The radio output is the radio output. No brainer. No magic.

Remember this:
Factory radio -> programmable DSP -> quality 4 channel amp with watts -> quality speakers

will ALWAYS produce a way better, customizable sound than:

Factory radio -> minimal DSP -> decent 4 channel minimum amps -> expensive speakers

Your hearing, music choice, and listening environment will change over time. Don't under estimate how stepping up the first time changes your brain's perception of sound in the Bronco. You will want to step up again, until you "tune it in". That is why you started this in the first place.

A programmable DSP is worth every penny you spend on it. Buy once, cry once.
And you will have the ability to adapt down the road without spending more money.

Thank you! I’ll check out Car Tunes and the place in Northville if I can get there.

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