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Scooter M'Gee

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I am running the Hellwig 7900 rear bar on my Base 2 door. It bolts up using the OE mounting points. Took 1/2 hour to install. It is 100% above the rear axle and is adjustable.

Not my picture but here it is mounted up:

Ford Bronco OEM Rear Sway Bar Install with Tips and Initial Impressions hellwig
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CarmeloS

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Just double checking, if I get the hellwig kit for my '21, I don't need to get anything from the OEM one, right?
 

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Just double checking, if I get the hellwig kit for my '21, I don't need to get anything from the OEM one, right?
Do '21 2-doors have the frame and axle mounting points? I was thinking those showed up on 2-doors sometime in '22 in preparation for HOSS 3.0 coming out mid-'22.
 

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Do '21 2-doors have the frame and axle mounting points? I was thinking those showed up on 2-doors sometime in '22 in preparation for HOSS 3.0 coming out mid-'22.
That's correct. Also 2dr and 4dr bronco rear bar is the same fitment.
 

CarmeloS

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Do '21 2-doors have the frame and axle mounting points? I was thinking those showed up on 2-doors sometime in '22 in preparation for HOSS 3.0 coming out mid-'22.
ill check soon and post, think I do though
 

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Scooter M'Gee

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Just double checking, if I get the hellwig kit for my '21, I don't need to get anything from the OEM one, right?
As long as you have the OE mounting points, no, you won't need anything else.
 

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I am running the Hellwig 7900 rear bar on my Base 2 door. It bolts up using the OE mounting points. Took 1/2 hour to install. It is 100% above the rear axle and is adjustable.
Did you notice much of a handling difference adding the Hellwig bar to your 2 dr? Are you lifted at all?
 

Scooter M'Gee

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Did you notice much of a handling difference adding the Hellwig bar to your 2 dr? Are you lifted at all?
Both handling and brake dive noticeably improved. I have the set in the middle setting.
 

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@Scooter M'Gee you originally had the OEM bar on your truck, correct? I think I almost bought yours. The improvement you've found is over the OEM bar (vs no bar at all)?
 

Scooter M'Gee

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@Scooter M'Gee you originally had the OEM bar on your truck, correct? I think I almost bought yours. The improvement you've found is over the OEM bar (vs no bar at all)?
My '25 came from the factory with no rear bar. I had purchased all new OE parts to install it but I went with the adjustable Hellwig bar instead.
 

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MDH

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Just installed the OEM bar. For anyone planning to do it you don’t need a lift. I just jacked up the driver side rear frame about 3 to 4 inches - the rear driver’s side tire didn’t even come off the ground. That gives you enough space above the differential to snake the bar over. Start on the driver side and just have a little patience. As OP says, it goes on easier if you first remove the metal clamps from the rubber bushings on the bar itself. Just depress the rubber a little bit on the sides and pull the clamps off. I had a little trouble putting one of the clamps back on the rubber bushing but a teeny bit of white grease and it went on easily.
 

redone17

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Just installed the OEM bar. For anyone planning to do it you don’t need a lift. I just jacked up the driver side rear frame about 3 to 4 inches - the rear driver’s side tire didn’t even come off the ground. That gives you enough space above the differential to snake the bar over. Start on the driver side and just have a little patience. As OP says, it goes on easier if you first remove the metal clamps from the rubber bushings on the bar itself. Just depress the rubber a little bit on the sides and pull the clamps off. I had a little trouble putting one of the clamps back on the rubber bushing but a teeny bit of white grease and it went on easily.
Nice. I have to set some time aside and get this done. Major improvement?
 

MDH

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Nice. I have to set some time aside and get this done. Major improvement?
So it is an improvement, but let me give a little background. Suspension mods are tricky because there are so many interconnected suspension parts, everyone’s got a different goal in mind, and these goals are subjective. My Bronco is very light (2.3 and no gear) and I wanted more of a supple feel, not a sports car feel. So I have aftermarket coilovers, I replaced the front swaybar with a Carli torsion bar, and now just added the OEM rear swaybar. I also had to do the trackbar relocation bracket because of the increased height. Just now adding the rear sway bar, by itself it was not a huge difference, in part because it’s pretty thin diameter steel. But just driving it today it’s a nice addition to the front torsion bar and basically helps provide a nice balance to the suspension. Meaning the Carli bar softened up the front which I really like, and the rear sway bar added just touch more control overall. Hope that makes sense.
 

MDH

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Nice. I have to set some time aside and get this done. Major improvement?
Another comment on installation, be wary of the written instructions available online (nothing comes with the parts). At least one of the torque specs is flat out wrong.
 

ThunderFlash

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@Altitude, thank you very much for posting this. Your efforts made it all very easy to order parts and perform the installation on my '22 2-dr HOSS 2.0 Wildtrak. :clap: For the sake of other interested parties, here is my story:

I bought a used rear bar off eBay for $160 that included the links and had free shipping. The fasteners from Altitudes parts list were bought new from My Ford Parts. They cost about $65 including shipping and tax. One of the M12X1.25 link threads on the used sway bar was pretty badly damaged. I did not have a thread die in that pitch, but I salvaged the link thread with a small triangle file. I also picked up a sliver in the process and bled on the bar making it an official vehicle upgrade.

Removing both mounting brackets from the sway bar was a must for me. I have the Borla climber exhaust which puts the main muffler can between the frame rails, but I was still able to snake the bar in place while the truck was on jack stands with rear wheels removed. Access was no problem wheels removed. I also thought the little clip studs that go on the axle brackets were pretty clever and reasonably priced at $4.90 each. One thing to note, the sway bar link nuts used an 18mm ratchet wrench. Good thing because I don't have a 19mm ratcheting wrench.

Ride does seem very slightly rougher, but the impact on body roll while cornering is notable and favorable. Oddly, it does seem to slightly reduce both front dive during braking and rear squat during acceleration, but I'm not sure how that would be give how a sway bar works. In the end, I'm hoping off road this might force some additional articulation to the front. I also have the Boss Walker Links still to install up front as well. As it sits now, I think the rear sway bar is a worthwhile modification, particularly for about $225 all in for the rear sway bar.

On the bummer side, I found doing this that the seals on both my rear Eibach Pro Truck 2.0 shocks are blown. We were out last weekend and encountered some washboard forest service roads. Even though I kept it very low speed, its the only thing I can imagine could have cause the seal failures if they got over heated. A Bronco lovers work is never done.

Ford Bronco OEM Rear Sway Bar Install with Tips and Initial Impressions PXL_20260603_221827150


Ford Bronco OEM Rear Sway Bar Install with Tips and Initial Impressions PXL_20260603_215234491~2


Ford Bronco OEM Rear Sway Bar Install with Tips and Initial Impressions PXL_20260603_215302152~2
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