CarbonSteel's 2023 Wildtrak Build + Maintenance Journal (Filters, Fluids, Oil Changes Etc)

[Nc211]

Did a little maintenance yesterday — changed the oil. It was a short run, which served two purposes: to determine the fuel dilution rates and to return me to a regular mileage interval with a UOA to follow. I will also change the rear axle fluid and cover soon, and will perform a UOA on the fluid as well. I had a 1/8" NPT bung welded into a new FP cover for a temperature probe and had it re-powder coated black. I may put my current FP cover up for sale for a reasonable price, as I will not need two of them.

I also changed the air filter. Although the silicon has continued to drop, as shown in my UOAs--the tell-tale sign for replacing the filter would be when the silicon rises--after two years and 30,000 miles of hot under-hood temperatures and operating in dusty Colorado, I decided to change it before winter sets in.

Without question, this was the easiest filter to change on any modern vehicle I have owned. There are four bolts and one push pin to loosen/remove, and the cover lifts straight off--no wrestling with a big hose clamp or fighting to remove the intake hose from the cover. The filter itself comes right out by lifting on the edge opposite the opening, and it installs the same way. The inlet of the filter fits very snugly on the inlet opening and seals well.

I went with the aFe Magnum FLOW Pro DRY S Air Filter after spending some time looking at it and the S&B filter. I am not and have never been a fan of oiled filters--particularly K&N. Most, if not all, of these types of filters sacrifice filtering capability for flow, which typically means they allow more contaminants to pass through the media. They also present the risk of, when overoiled, allowing oil to enter the intake system, which could cause a MAF/MAP sensor to fail. The S&B filter that is available is an oiled model.

**EDIT - thanks to @redone17 he noted S&B also makes a dry media model and I may grab one and attempt to do a test between it and the aFe to see if there are any differences in silicon rates.**

One thing to note, as seen in the photos, is that it **appears** the OEM filter has more media area, although the aFe media could be more efficient, which would offset the apparent reduced media area.

Comparing the OEM filter to the aFE, one has to note the OEM is well-made, though there was some waviness in the media:

Here is the OEM still in the air box:

Here is the aFe installed:

Here are a few shots of the OEM from 4 viewpoints:

And finally, a couple of shots of the interior of the OEM:

Hey @CarbonSteel, curious of your thoughts on the air filter you used recently? Are we happy with it? No concerns? I'm coming up to 20k on mine and was planning to change the air filter at that time. Trying to decide between a trip to the Ford parts counter for another OE, or perhaps one of these like you bought!

Thanks Amigo!!

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[CarbonSteel]

Hey @CarbonSteel, curious of your thoughts on the air filter you used recently? Are we happy with it? No concerns? I'm coming up to 20k on mine and was planning to change the air filter at that time. Trying to decide between a trip to the Ford parts counter for another OE, or perhaps one of these like you bought!

Thanks Amigo!!

So far, so good, but the next few UOAs on the oil will tell the tale. Given its construction, I think it will filter better than the OEM, but we need data to know for sure.

 

[LSW]

I was thinking about your fuel dilution: do you think living in Colorado at high altitude could cause the engine to run higher boost more often and therefore have more dilution, than say someone like me at sea level where it is usually cool/cold (denser air)?

Also, going forward, what are you going to use as the condemnation point of your Bronco’s oil? A fuel dilution %? A lower set mileage or calendar limit?

Savant labs out of Michigan recommends 2.4% dilution as the oil condemnation point, but I have seen other reports that say dilution won’t necessarily result in measurably higher wear till it gets over 5%-10%. If we used 2.4% we’d probably have to change the oil every 300 miles, as I’ve done Polaris/OA samples that were 3.4% at 500 and 2.2% at 100 miles. That’s with no idling, just a 30 second warmup on cold starts followed by <3000 rpm driving until up to operating temp, then followed by mostly highway driving.

I’m going to give the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 a chance to clean up the deposits in my Wildtrak’s engine for 20,000 miles then maybe switch to ESP 0W-30 like you use. We have been flirting with -20F overnight in some of our popular snow-wheeling areas so the 0W oil would be nice.

I’ve also heard that Amsoil is reformulating their Signature series for next spring and it would be tempting to try their new 0W-40, but I might be done with unlicensed, unapproved oil after my HPL debacle. The more I look into it the more the MB229.51 and Porsche C30 approvals of M1 ESP are pretty compelling.

 

[redone17]

My first report from Horizon states that my dilution is 7.7!!! That was only after 2000 miles too (using what I assume to be Motorcraft). Not ok. Ford fleet vehicle that was driven 8500 miles in a month w/o an oil change that I’m aware of.

Changed to Motul 5w30 and will run another report after another 5000. Part of me wonders if I should pull it at 2500.

I have an extremely short commute. I had a feeling that was causing issues in my 2021. We’ll see if the new MPC motor is any different.

Might have to change grades.

 

[LSW]

My first report from Horizon states that my dilution is 7.7!!! That was only after 2000 miles too (using what I assume to be Motorcraft). Not ok. Ford fleet vehicle that was driven 8500 miles in a month w/o an oil change that I’m aware of.

Changed to Motul 5w30 and will run another report after another 5000. Part of me wonders if I should pull it at 2500.

I have an extremely short commute. I had a feeling that was causing issues in my 2021. We’ll see if the new MPC motor is any different.

Might have to change grades.

Wow, 2.3 or 2.7L engine? Can you post a copy of the report? I have usually only seen Horizon/Polaris/OA analyses say >5% and not give an actual reading if it was above that, would be interesting to see yours. Usually I see the >5% on Hondas but I’ve seen it on a few gen 1 3.5L ecoboosts too.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I was thinking about your fuel dilution: do you think living in Colorado at high altitude could cause the engine to run higher boost more often and therefore have more dilution, than say someone like me at sea level where it is usually cool/cold (denser air)?

Also, going forward, what are you going to use as the condemnation point of your Bronco’s oil? A fuel dilution %? A lower set mileage or calendar limit?

Savant labs out of Michigan recommends 2.4% dilution as the oil condemnation point, but I have seen other reports that say dilution won’t necessarily result in measurably higher wear till it gets over 5%-10%. If we used 2.4% we’d probably have to change the oil every 300 miles, as I’ve done Polaris/OA samples that were 3.4% at 500 and 2.2% at 100 miles. That’s with no idling, just a 30 second warmup on cold starts followed by <3000 rpm driving until up to operating temp, then followed by mostly highway driving.

I’m going to give the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 a chance to clean up the deposits in my Wildtrak’s engine for 20,000 miles then maybe switch to ESP 0W-30 like you use. We have been flirting with -20F overnight in some of our popular snow-wheeling areas so the 0W oil would be nice.

I’ve also heard that Amsoil is reformulating their Signature series for next spring and it would be tempting to try their new 0W-40, but I might be done with unlicensed, unapproved oil after my HPL debacle. The more I look into it the more the MB229.51 and Porsche C30 approvals of M1 ESP are pretty compelling.

It could be because the boost happens more at 7K ASL than at sea level, but I don't really hammer my Wildtrak that much, and I stopped doing warm-ups in the winter. It could be normal behavior, but I suspect I have a fuel system issue. The 2.7L has dual injection (MPI and DI), and one would think that around town (<50MPH) it would be using MPI for the most part, which does not typically lead to dilution.

I have landed on a 5K OCI, which falls in the 4.5-5.0% range, and the wear metals remain reasonable. I despise messing with the dealers, and the one here in COS is pretty clueless, but I have other things for them to repair so I will give it a go after the holidays.

I would pass on Amsoil SS — their most expensive, supposedly highest-quality oil has no certifications whatsoever, and the reasons (excuses) they give for that are LAF. The approvals that ESP has would be difficult, if not impossible, to beat with other formulations. It holds up well to the 5.0% fuel dilution that I have, so I am sticking with it.

 

[CarbonSteel]

My first report from Horizon states that my dilution is 7.7!!! That was only after 2000 miles too (using what I assume to be Motorcraft). Not ok. Ford fleet vehicle that was driven 8500 miles in a month w/o an oil change that I’m aware of.

Changed to Motul 5w30 and will run another report after another 5000. Part of me wonders if I should pull it at 2500.

I have an extremely short commute. I had a feeling that was causing issues in my 2021. We’ll see if the new MPC motor is any different.

Might have to change grades.

The short trips are contributing heavily to the dilution, especially if you are not able to hit the highways for some extended driving at points in time. It takes a while on the highway to burn off the dilution and even then it does not fully disappear. The only cure is to change the oil.

 

[redone17]

The short trips are contributing heavily to the dilution, especially if you are not able to hit the highways for some extended driving at points in time. It takes a while on the highway to burn off the dilution and even then it does not fully disappear. The only cure is to change the oil.

I’m going to run this for 2500 and see if the full syn is any better. Otherwise - do you suggest Mobil 1 ESP 0w50?

 

[LSW]

It could be because the boost happens more at 7K ASL than at sea level, but I don't really hammer my Wildtrak that much, and I stopped doing warm-ups in the winter. It could be normal behavior, but I suspect I have a fuel system issue. The 2.7L has dual injection (MPI and DI), and one would think that around town (<50MPH) it would be using MPI for the most part, which does not typically lead to dilution.

I have landed on a 5K OCI, which falls in the 4.5-5.0% range, and the wear metals remain reasonable. I despise messing with the dealers, and the one here in COS is pretty clueless, but I have other things for them to repair so I will give it a go after the holidays.

I would pass on Amsoil SS — their most expensive, supposedly highest-quality oil has no certifications whatsoever, and the reasons (excuses) they give for that are LAF. The approvals that ESP has would be difficult, if not impossible, to beat with other formulations. It holds up well to the 5.0% fuel dilution that I have, so I am sticking with it.

yeah that makes sense. Going down the rabbit hole on ILSAC oils and how the .gov require that the US automakers recommend thin oils for minuscule CAFE/fuel economy improvements at the expense of wear protection is a fun time. The Euro ACEA licenses are no panacea either but at least the euro automakers like VAG and MB can approve and test >= 3.5 HTHS oils for their performance vehicles without government penalties. I think the consumer has to pay some kind tax on their carbon usage for performance cars over there though.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I’m going to run this for 2500 and see if the full syn is any better. Otherwise - do you suggest Mobil 1 ESP 0w50?

I would try M1 ESP 0W-30 first and test it. It starts with a Kinematic Viscosity of 12.2 @ 100°C and (thus far) with 5% dilution, I am at 10.8KV after 5K miles, which represents an 88.5% viscosity retention and is thicker than where most US 5W-30 oils start.

 

[CarbonSteel]

My latest UOA after installing the aFe Pro Dry S air filter. @Nc211 - the silicon levels are good at 5PPM for this run and given that I opened the filter housing, I had expected it to be higher for this first run. It should drop a little more if the aFe is a better filter versus the Ford.

All other readings including viscosity are good, but I need to stop being lazy and take it to the dealer. Fuel dilution is far too high despite reducing the oil change interval. The problem is the Ford dealer in town seems to be fairly clueless so it will be a crap shoot.

CarbonSteel's UOAs

 

[LSW]

My latest UOA after installing the aFe Pro Dry S air filter. @Nc211 - the silicon levels are good at 5PPM for this run and given that I opened the filter housing, I had expected it to be higher for this first run. It should drop a little more if the aFe is a better filter versus the Ford.

All other readings including viscosity are good, but I need to stop being lazy and take it to the dealer. Fuel dilution is far too high despite reducing the oil change interval. The problem is the Ford dealer in town seems to be fairly clueless so it will be a crap shoot.

CarbonSteel's UOAs

Well, I was > 5% dilution on my last Polaris UOA too. This was only after 900 miles to boot, and I make an effort to limit idling and short trips. There’s no getting around doing some -10F cold starts after it sits at the work parking lot all day though, and I think that’s what’s contributing. I’m reading that on cold starts the catalytic converter warm up scheme has it running pretty rich for a few minutes at “high idle” when cold. That plus fuel vapor condensing on the supercooled cylinder walls at start could be the culprits?

Based on the viscosity drop I estimate the fuel dilution is somewhere in the 6.5% neighborhood for that last analysis. I have a 5,000 mile sample shipping to Polaris now and will be interested to see what it says. I paid extra for the Cold Crank Simulator test to see if the Valvoline is slipping a winter grade in service or not, even though I think MRV pumpability is the more important winter grade test.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Well, I was > 5% dilution on my last Polaris UOA too. This was only after 900 miles to boot, and I make an effort to limit idling and short trips. There’s no getting around doing some -10F cold starts after it sits at the work parking lot all day though, and I think that’s what’s contributing. I’m reading that on cold starts the catalytic converter warm up scheme has it running pretty rich for a few minutes at “high idle” when cold. That plus fuel vapor condensing on the supercooled cylinder walls at start could be the culprits?

I am not convinced the cold weather is a major factor unless the "tune" you described is accurate. I have taken long trips (COS to HOU) when the dilution should be lowest and it has been more or less the same.

In the winter months when it was fairly new, I was seeing 2.4% and 1.9% so it is achievable (or was). I have 4 things going on with it, so it is time to take it in before my 3/36 expires. I have the 6/100 as well, but there is a deductible.

I have the rear camera recall, this fuel dilution problem, there is a popping in the front end, and the driveshaft "thunks" when taking off and starting. With my luck it'll be in the shop for weeks, so I hope they have loaners of some sort.

I'll keep you posted.

 

[Thatguylegit69]

I am not convinced the cold weather is a major factor unless the "tune" you described is accurate. I have taken long trips (COS to HOU) when the dilution should be lowest and it has been more or less the same.

In the winter months when it was fairly new, I was seeing 2.4% and 1.9% so it is achievable (or was). I have 4 things going on with it, so it is time to take it in before my 3/36 expires. I have the 6/100 as well, but there is a deductible.

I have the rear camera recall, this fuel dilution problem, there is a popping in the front end, and the driveshaft "thunks" when taking off and starting. With my luck it'll be in the shop for weeks, so I hope they have loaners of some sort.

I'll keep you posted.

Im not sure if it's the same issue that Gen 1 Raptors had, concerning the drives shaft, but its worth trying this fix.
Raptors had this issue and it was driving several people crazy, one dude hounded his dealership and finally told him to separate the shift and apply some grease. They recommend the Ford grease for shafts, but im sure an equivalent would suffice. Low and behold, the clunk does go away.
Makes sense, high revolutions for the life of the vehicle, movement, friction and so on, grease just vanishes. Very odd that it's not a recommend regular maintenance item.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Im not sure if it's the same issue that Gen 1 Raptors had, concerning the drives shaft, but its worth trying this fix.
Raptors had this issue and it was driving several people crazy, one dude hounded his dealership and finally told him to separate the shift and apply some grease. They recommend the Ford grease for shafts, but im sure an equivalent would suffice. Low and behold, the clunk does go away.
Makes sense, high revolutions for the life of the vehicle, movement, friction and so on, grease just vanishes. Very odd that it's not a recommend regular maintenance item.

I think there is a TSB on the Bronco for this issue, but in any event it should be covered under warranty.

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