Recent content by Chrome_Pony

Relatively low power device, given the wire gauge.

Ah, reminds me of the 50 Shades of Flat Dark Earth of my TJ interior

Had both on my LWN Duramax, other than the Banks failing safe, which is an incredibly rare occurrence, the difference is negligible IMO. I got the Banks intending to function with my OG iDash in the LWN, which it doesn't, so buyer beware, only works with the iDash Pro.

Recently removed Oracle Mirror Cap LED set. Had the bezels professionally powdercoated in matte black by Big Dipper Industries, here in AK. Like new mirror cap conditions, only installed for about 6500miles. Comes with an extra OEM textured bezel, and the magnetic LED covers. Currently...

Maybe these two will cancel each other out and it'll be good.

Man, that's disappointing about the light output. Was hoping a usable output amount in addition to the directionality of the beam. I wonder how hard it might be to replace the light head with something like a DD or BD light. I guess my Baja Designs S2 and Diode Dynamics SS3 Pros were a good...

ARGES by Whelen was one of the ones I was looking at when I wanted a movable one. Expensive but quality and not obnoxiously large. @KT_bronco has one.

The headlight/fog light slushup/freezeover is a very specific set of winter circumstances with high humidity, temps just at or around freezing and snow/slush precipitation. Any colder it's just snow, any warmer and it's rain/snow mix. I see this a couple times a winter in AK, all other times...

Two soft shackles and a tree saver strap

If I remember right I tried the tiny Allen keys and had better luck with a flathead screwdriver.. why is the airbag coming off again though?

It's marginal for damn near any use case, IMO. Mostly it just moves the thermal mass curve slightly right. More fluid by the pickup at steep angles, and potentially better pan cooling from heatsinks are about the few positives I see. Side mounted trans cooler. Wild. I'll have to crawl under...

Not that I disagree that the crimp is the most likely to fail, but I haven't found the two different gauges in the inline heatshrink splices I use are particularly failure prone versus a two different gauge butt splicing which is much more challenging.

Doesn't really matter, as long as it's the same or larger gauge than the fuse tap. I had 14 or 16 AWG laying around. The pigtail is a universal part, so the wiring isn't specific to the Bronco or potentially even the heated wheel.

"Please DM us your VIN number!"