Raw aluminum skid - coating?

[sportcoupe]

What are you doing to prevent corrosion on raw aluminum skids? Material is 5052 and may not be the most corrosion resistant compared to say 6061. I see options are obviously leaving it raw, painting/bed lining, powder coating, clearcoat (alum specific), or alodine chemical film finish.

I prefer the raw look but chalky aluminum looks bad. Engine skid is very visible from the front.

Sponsored

 

[TrailRax]

What are you doing to prevent corrosion on raw aluminum skids? Material is 5052 and may not be the most corrosion resistant compared to say 6061. I see options are obviously leaving it raw, painting/bed lining, powder coating, clearcoat (alum specific), or alodine chemical film finish.

I prefer the raw look but chalky aluminum looks bad. Engine skid is very visible from the front.

If you want to keep clear or a raw look, try Type 3 clear anodizing.

 

[chtucker]

5052 is marine grade aluminum and absolutely fine being e posed fo any air. It will just oxidize.

 

[Big Boss]

Like mentioned earlier, if you want to keep the raw look you want to get it clear anodized. That will give more protection than raw aluminum to the elements.

 

[sportcoupe]

5052 is marine grade aluminum and absolutely fine being e posed fo any air. It will just oxidize.

Oxidization is corrosion.

 

[chtucker]

Oxidization is corrosion.

OK- 5052 can sit in salt water… there is NOTHING to worry about on the underside of a Bronco

 

[sportcoupe]

Is there a DIY clearcoat solution?

I heard you can't just Krylon clearcoat aluminum because it will flake off and yellow.

Clear anodize isn't DIY and sounds expensive.

 

[chtucker]

Is there a DIY clearcoat solution?

I heard you can't just Krylon clearcoat aluminum because it will flake off and yellow.

Clear anodize isn't DIY and sounds expensive.

As with any coating when it get compromised by scratches (think skid plates) coatings fail- Here is what most of the marine industry uses https://sharkhidestore.com/ or https://www.nyalic.com/Aluminum-Boats_c_42.html Also as with all coatings, prep is key. You will need to remove all of the mill scale/oils prior to application. You can do that through mechanical means (sanding etc) or you can acid wash with something like aluma brite

The question is - Are you trying to keep the shiny look? That will be a consistent battle, shark hide will help, but any time you get a scratch, you will need to polish and blend in a fix.

Do you think that the aluminum oxide will be detrimental to the aluminum integrity?? If so, again that is 10000% not a concern with 5052. There is a ton of info here about marine grade aluminum in salt water environments http://www.aluminumalloyboats.com/ Aluminum skid plates are likely 3/16 to 1/4" think. There is ZERO risk of structural damage do to corrosion.

My boat is made of 5052 and 5086 sits in salt water year round and I have more problems from poor prep for the Shark Hide than I do with just raw aluminum. Where the shark hide gets compromised from crab pots etc, I get a little flowering from paultice corrosion from moisture being trapped https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/reducing-poultice-corrosion.66838/

The best thing that I have done is just use a fine scotch brite pad to clean up the shark hide failures. Everything else just sits raw and gets a dull look. Use 316 stainless hardware, use Tef-Gel on on hardware to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion.

We have had our aluminum boat for 10 years.

In this picture you can see what properly prepped aluminum looks like to apply a coating to. A polished surface doesn't provide a good connection point for a coating. This is a super aggressive sand blast because we are applying antifouling paint, (not for corrosion protection, just to minimize growth) The boat can sit in the salt water without any coatings and be fine ,(as long as no one in the marina is not leaking electricity, which is very common because of poor wiring habits in boats by DIYs)

 

[Num Num]

No name on the boat? I thought you had to name them….. I have aluminum skids without coating and so far they still look like new, except for a few trail marks….minor battle scars!

 

[chtucker]

No name on the boat? I thought you had to name them….. I have aluminum skids without coating and so far they still look like new, except for a few trail marks….minor battle scars!

Its there- Double Trouble, I have twins. twin yamahas and twin 13 year old kids.

 

[Big Boss]

Is there a DIY clearcoat solution?

I heard you can't just Krylon clearcoat aluminum because it will flake off and yellow.

Clear anodize isn't DIY and sounds expensive.

If you want it to last no not really. Like others said, what ever you decide to do prep work will be your best friend. Aluminum can be very finicky, it has to be absolutely clean before you do anything. Any reputable powdercoating or anodozing place should be able to handle that. You can paint raw aluminum, its actually easier to paint raw aluminum than anodized but it will eventually flake. Most aluminum when it comes painted is an electrostatic paint. Your best bet would be to have it powdercoated or anodized if you want it to last. However, once you get scratches or battle scars in it, that would break the coating and leave you with exposed metal.

But like others said 5052 is marine grade. Going to hold up very well to oxidation. That is why it's used in marine applications.

Source - I sell aluminum lol. I know all about people trying to get away with stuff to get it done on the cheap. It doesn't work. Leave it raw, it will hold up. If you feel you absolutely need to do something Powder coat or anodize

 

[Num Num]

Nice looking boat and you have your work cut out for you!

 

[BigFootie]

The oxidation on raw aluminum is aluminum oxide and it starts immediately. It is not the same as iron oxidation where the material breaks down. Aluminum oxide is actually a condition that forms similar to anodizing but not as controlled. If you want it pretty, then anodize or chemical conversion (pre rohs called Alodine or clear iridite).

5052 is typically used for sheet metal parts (formed) where 6061 is used for machined parts.

 

[sportcoupe]

I've decided to go with Sharkhide. It's used widely in the marine industry, cost effective, and is simple to apply. Touchups are also easier than even paint.

 

[Hashlak]

I got mine polished to a mirror finnish and then wrapped it in PPF. Looks cool and reflects the road.

Not sure how long it will last but lets see. We dont have much rocks here so the main use is in desert environments.

Sponsored