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Awesome Smittybilt Compressor Hack

broncorik

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I was reading through tons of website regarding the best air system...and although I'd love to get an on on board system like the ARB twin that mounts under the hood, I didn't want to spend close to 1000. If found the Smittybilt 2781, which is close in CFM to the ARB twin...for 170 bucks. What I initially did not realize was that it (any many other portable compressors) are designed with "blow through" systems...meaning that they have no pressure switch to shut the unit off if the air deadheads (alternatively, a pop off valve will cycle and sound like a gun blast if the user opts for a closed system chuck). In simpler terms it means if you buy a Smittybilt, you would need to start the compressor (as air shoots out the chuck), then screw the crappy fitting onto your valve as the air is shooting out, then fill the tire...and then run back to the compressor and momentarily shut it off and run back to the tire to get an accurate pressure reading (because the reading is inaccurate while airing). Then repeat as many times a necessary.

Many folks have decided to ditch the blow through chuck and add a closed chuck witu a proper trigger, to avoid running back and forth, BUT in order to do that and to avoid popping the blow off they ended up adding a pressure switch that shuts the compressor off at a predetermined psi reading. I liked that idea, and it allows the user to add a real pressure gauge and chuck with a trigger, but running that setup means your pump would be constantly stopping and starting...which is not good for compressor longevity.

I then found a genius hack that let me skip the pressure switch, add a much better blow through chuck that actually fits in our valves without interference, and control the flow without leaving the tire while airing. It is basically a slick valve you add before the gauge that, with compressor running, airs the tire when slid towards the tire, and then when slid towards the compressor vents the compressor side to atmosphere and seals the downstream side so you can get an accurate reading. Much better! Link here:

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/smittybilt-2781-hose-mod.216027/

Kudos to the person who figured that out. Now I have portable air for the Bronco or the RV or whatever.
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grayshadow

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The cheapest alternative is just watch your TPMS sensors on the dash. They are “live” and accurate.
I think he is more concerned about how to air up after airing down after a day on the trail.:oops:
 

Werkedperformance

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I think he is more concerned about how to air up after airing down after a day on the trail.:oops:
This. They show real time. Set compressor near Drivers door to flip on or off, or wire it off a relay off a hero switch. Watch the dash. Stop compressor when at desired pressure. Done.
 

goatman2

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Nice idea. I've had the portable Smittybuilt compressor for quite a while, never thought it was any kind of a problem to just turn it on and then air up the tires. Never went back and forth turning it on and off, just let it run. Not a bad little compressor. I also have hard mount ARB compressors, but use the portable on a couple Jeeps that didn't have the hard mount.
 
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broncorik

broncorik

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This. They show real time. Set compressor near Drivers door to flip on or off, or wire it off a relay off a hero switch. Watch the dash. Stop compressor when at desired pressure. Done.
I thought of that but Smittybilt warns against repeated hard stopping and starting, and also recommends that the compressor is running when connecting to the tire...so the slide valve cheapo fix ticks that box because it vents to atmosphere when swapping tires, and therefore the compressor stays running and "soft starts" on each tire. It has a 40-minute duty cycle, so plenty of time to air my tires and anyone else who needs air. Also, if I swap to a car with TPMS, I'm still good. The cool part is the hack is cheap, you get a MUCH better chuck, and the compressor still works with the method you shared as well. The compressor can take my 35s from 18-20 to 39 in about 1.5-2 minutes. It was easier for me than adding a pressure switch (especially because only one supplier seems to make the metric to NPT fitting required to add the T for the pressure switch).
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