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RJWhit

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AGAIN, I'm surprised at Ford .... how can they sell these mud flaps without the cutouts being pre-cut, when they know there is interference!
They do.

Mud Guards VM2DZ-16A550
Front A/ Rock Rails $583.70
Rear B $583.70
E- with Rock Rails $583.70

What a joke.
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RogueSqdn

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Excellent writeup. Thanks for posting.

I'd just like to caution folks who have never used a Dremel tool before or have novice experience with one. The spiral cutter shown in the pic below is a very dangerous bit to use in a Dremel. It is a very effective and aggressive cutting tool that can EASILY get away from you and make a cut in a direction you do not intend it to cut.

Ford Bronco DIY dremel solution - how to mount Ford Front Mudflaps on Sasquatch with Step Bars PXL_20211126_163739231
 

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Lou-Q

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Eventually someone will come out with a proper mudflap for an SAS with factory side step bars. But my paintjob won't wait that long. Someone else had posted a pic of modifying the factory mudflaps so I purchased them. Ford part #M2DZ16A550AA. Here's how easy it is to mount them. I'm just a garage mechanice:

1. Turn the wheel to get it out of the way. For right side flap turn it left. For left side flap turn it right.
2. Remove the 2 screw plugs from the bottom of the inner fender lining and either remove the fender flare or at least the first 2 latches:
PXL_20211126_163851057.jpg

2. Line the holes in the flap with the 2 holes in the inner fender. I put a screwdriver in each hole to keep them aligned.
3. Using a pencil, trace the area you'll need to cut to clear the step. Remove from the car and then use a sharpie of the pencil so you can see the line better:
PXL_20211126_163313901.jpg

4. Using a Dremel tool or your favorite cutting device, cut the hole. Better to cut small and then have to go back and cut more:
PXL_20211126_163342317.jpg

I used a side cutter to make neat corners:
PXL_20211126_163739231.jpg

Test fit. You'll find that the the further you slide the flap onto the step the larger the hole will need to be. You'll want the flap to rest against the inner fender without flexing it. Once you're done you can clean up the edges of your hole with a file or sandpaper.
5. You'll need to trim the top of the flap off in order to clear the fender flare. Put the fender flare back in place, line the flap up with the 2 holes again, and now you can trace out the cut to the flap:
PXL_20211126_165132355.jpg

That's it. Put it all together now. The mudflap kit comes with some extra bolts if you want to secure it in place with more then the 2 screws. I did a test drive at 85mph and they didn't loosen. And there's no rub on the tires lock to lock. Easy peasy!
PXL_20211126_171123205.jpg

PXL_20211126_171001057.MP.jpg

PXL_20211126_171001057.MP.jpg


PXL_20211126_165318837.jpg


PXL_20211126_163313901.jpg


Note that the rear mudflaps part #M2DZ16A550BB have 3 screwholes that you'd think would line up with the 3 screwholes in the rear bumper but they don't. So you'll need to drill new holes to mount those. Should be easy peasy with no cutting but I haven't done so yet.
How much were those mudflaps from Ford?
Thanks,
Lou
 

CUPRA

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threeonone

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Would I have to remove the crash bars on a non-sas to get these to work?
 

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WLDTRK

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Does the tube step move down at all when you use it? if so i could see this putting strain on the fender/flaps over time without room to move
 
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AlanP

AlanP

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Does the tube step move down at all when you use it? if so i could see this putting strain on the fender/flaps over time without room to move
No movement in it. It's bolted solid to the frame and had no flex.
 

BkCntryCrwlr

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Well, this just got added to the 2nd position on the "To Do List" when my Bronco arrives, right behind adding the Rhino Dominator Extreme D1's! Nice write up and thanks for sharing.
 

ColeTrain84

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