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DC Power Outlet Relocation

MichaelCar001

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After reading your post I can say one thing that I'd definitely test everything out thoroughly before putting everything back together. If you're not sure about any step, it's best to get help from an auto electrician. They can make sure everything's working right so you don't end up with more problems later.
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ElDuderino

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Hmm it doesn’t actually list the specs you’d need to be looking at. Just “recharge time” which doesn’t mean much

It also wouldn’t be the first time I’ve seen a report of a power station either popping a fuse or melting a connector that is rated higher than its supposed DC charging rating. I think a lot of these units are not respecting the DC charge rating.

The other thing to look at would be those butt splices and anywhere else you make a connection - it looks like you used bare splices, which is fine, but it just takes a fraction of a second of contact somewhere where it missed with heat shrink or electrical tape to short and arc - worth taking a peek at and making darn sure the shrink didn’t pull back or start strand of copper poking out or wire pull through or just missed a backside or something. That heat shrink does look a bit short…
I have everything pulled apart now, I will go through and double check everything. These terminals here, just bare wire goes into it correct? I believe this is the only place where any copper is showing. Should I try making the exposed copper shorter?

dometic-hardwiring-kit-dc_9600024894_67940.png
 

Brian_B

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I have everything pulled apart now, I will go through and double check everything. These terminals here, just bare wire goes into it correct? I believe this is the only place where any copper is showing. Should I try making the exposed copper shorter?

dometic-hardwiring-kit-dc_9600024894_67940.png
Got a pic of how it looks installed? Usually you do try to cut the wire short enough so there is no copper exposed, but sometimes that isn’t practical and a millimeter or two (so long as it can’t touch the other side) will work
 

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cr117

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A gray 2 amp fuse
Yep, way too small. Those specs you posted says it has a 120W DC charger. 120W / 12V = 10A. I’d try it with a 15A fuse in there (assuming all the wiring/connections are still sound).
 
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ElDuderino

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Yep, way too small. Those specs you posted says it has a 120W DC charger. 120W / 12V = 10A. I’d try it with a 15A fuse in there (assuming all the wiring/connections are still sound).
Ok, after inspecting everything I'll go to the shop and get some new fuses. As far as I can tell all off the connections and everything are fine.
 
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ElDuderino

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The connections at the terminal on the domestic outlet were a little bit long. I trimmed them down and made sure there was no chance the wires could touch. I also popped in a new 20 amp fuse at the adapter connection. The dometic wiring has a 15 amp fuse at the outlet, and the other end of the wiring before it meets the 12v adapter with a 20 amp

Everything is working as intended. Think it was just the low rated fuse.

thanks again for all the help
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