THANKS Brian very helpful and great point about the fuse!!! I do recall seeing that the fuse was not blown, so it’s a great question of why not. If it caused the issue then fuse I would think would’ve blown.
I was wondering if the installer might’ve clipped a wire when installing front speakers...
I believe it was me with it up to loud. Obviously not 100% sure but the amp is 500watts so pretty powerful and I had the top off so music was loud and I’m guessing sub wasn’t broken in? But I was told the voice coil burnt on it. however it was in for 3-mos and no issues or changes until one day...
UPDATE - so here's the story from the dealer. The Ford dealer said that they went back and forth with a Ford Technician and they are saying it was the aftermarket audio. They said the "vehicle has a piggyback connector directly connected to the ACM then goes to the aftermarket system. While...
hey @Ducati1098 - do you happen to know where the original ground is for the B&O amp and Sub from the factory? Just wondering if it’s in this same location or is it on the passenger side?
I had the B&O and they swapped the sub out for a JL and installed a DSP amp both on passenger side. I have no idea why they were on the drivers side unless the OEM amp was ground over there as well??
but even still would having those grounds in the same place as RTM be an issue?
However no...
Yea I agree on all. BUT I’m really hopeful there won’t be a second time and damn sure not a third!!! And that is gonna be my point to them. If those were grounded to the RTM and you didn’t replace that at all how could it be related as nothing goes to the BCM??
Well for those following along in this fiasco; today the dealership put a new BCM on and Bronco started right up. Then they sent me a pic that audio installer grounded the sub and amp to the same screw the RTM was grounded too. They are now waiting to hear back from Ford on what to do next...
no nothing unusual. It was installed at a professional place that has done other audio work for me on 3-other cars and never had an issue. I’m sure they’ll try to blame the installer assuming this swap works. But I have no idea how they could prove it wasn’t just a faulty BCM or wasn’t just a...
Yea my thought as well and the Service Mgr even agreed when I said that. I said “how do we know that the BCM, assuming that’s what it is, just didn’t go bad? Parts do break”. He said “well we don’t.”
obviously not discussing cost yet as they don’t know if this will fix it, but I’m guessing it...
@Ducati1098 - well the dealership has no clue of the issue, and said they contacted Ford and they think it could be the BCM. Their thought now is that the aftermarket amps, sub, and 2-front speakers could’ve messed up the BCM.
This baffles me as none of that is plugged in to the same place and...
Thanks @Sojourner. Yes VERY complicated and the dealer has had it a day and a half and ZERO progress.The head guy at the dealer worked on it all day yesterday and no progress. I sent them Ducati’s post and I assume they have checked all the anti-theft antennae’s and hopefully module but no...
Thank you for explaining that. So should I send this to the dealer? Would they have techs who could diagnose this? Also I’m guessing you’re saying any of those could be bad in this situation??
What are your suggestions to solve for this?
That could be. Any idea where this module is located? But the fact the center console should work no matter what, if it sends a signal to that module then it would explain it.
Thanks @5GENIDN as I mentioned in my post I tried the center console slot as did the dealership. No joy, doesn’t work everytime at least not for me.
Seems like it’s either software or maybe the anti theft antennae’s went bad as the two in the back are plugged in.
I’m getting the No Key Detected with my key FOB and Bronco won’t start!! The FOB locks and unlocks doors and sounds alarm, but when pushing start button I get the error. I’ve tried the center console slot and still No Key Detected. Tried both FOBs, swapped batteries, removed battery cables for...
To me using the PAC is the better option as you don’t have to go in and use Forscan. Plus the chimes stay with the speakers this way as Ford intended and if anything happens with factory head unit or anything else they can’t say I changed my settings voiding any warranty.
@Umichigan1 I’m not totally sure. The place that installed my amp and sub used it.
This is what I found online. Using a PAC they con control the volume of the chimes. Took them 5-mins to do it.
https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd31