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The head unit (AV unit) on my 2024 Big Bend is resetting itself every few minutes. I tried doing a factory reset, tried a Ford Connect reset, and apparently that didn’t help. It doesn’t matter whether my phone is connected or not. Doesn’t matter whether it’s driving or parked. The behavior is...

Update: I dialed it in and it sounds great. I went with the Polk Audio MM6502 speakers for the footwell, and used the crossovers but not the extra tweeters. Everybody who upgrades the factory 6.5” speakers says the mids get washed out, so I took a chance that the 93db speakers would actually be...

Results: I’m quite happy. I used the 2 ohm Kicker sub, wired in series to present 4 ohms of resistance to the amp. Dialed in the gain, then cranked the bass. It’s not “rattle the windows” loud, but it sounds GOOD. With the Polk Audio upgrades I did for the other six speakers, it’s really good...

Update: Kicker said that gain is just an input, and doesn't effect the power of the output. The manual literally reads "The input gain control is not a volume control. It matches the output level of the source unit to the input sensitivity of the amplifier. Maximum power out of the amplifier is...

I've just installed a Kicker 400.1 amp and have to make some choices. At 4 ohms, the Kicker amp will put out 150 watts per channel. That "per channel" is what's killing me. At first I split the audio signal and was running four wires from the amp to the dual voice coils, two per channel/coil...

Yes, Engine Noise Enhancement is the culprit. You're amplifying the bass so much that your engine sounds like a beefy V-8 now. :-)

[Cross-posted with updates/edits from my thread on mixing Polk Audio speakers.] I figured out the front speaker bass blocking issue once and for all. The Polk Audio DB402 4" speakers DO include a bass blocker for the tweeter only, not the larger speaker around it. The blocker is a 4.7...

I figured out the front speaker bass blocking issue once and for all. The Polk Audio DB402 4" speakers DO include a bass blocker for the tweeter only, not the larger speaker around it. The blocker is a 4.7 microfarad capacitor. According to the chart at Bass Blockers & Capacitors at Sonic...

I downloaded a Hertz tone generator and may have figured something out. I do think that deep bass sounds should be blocked from the 4” speakers. But the bass blocker I bought was blocking 300Hz and below. Playing a 300Hz tone, it sounds like that would include human speech which is why Alexa...

I’m curious, did you use a bass blocker on the DB402 dash speakers? A quick test made me think they’re useful, but now some sounds (e.g. Alexa) sound washed out. More testing may be needed. I put Polk MM652 speakers in my pods. Good sound and I’d like to pair them with other Polk speakers. I...

Pulled the trigger today on the 4” dash upgrade. After trying with and without, I did include the 300Hz blockers. The Polk Audio 4” speakers sound SO much better than OEM. The tweeters do sound a little bright, but that may just be because I’m not used to hearing treble from the dash. I’m still...

Thanks for the advice! I didn’t mention, but I like that the Polk Audio speakers have “ultra marine” certifications. My Bronco doesn’t go topless often, but I don’t want to worry when it does. I’ll likely do some experimentation with a sound meter and hertz generator. :-)

Thanks for this information, and great point! If I go this route, it may work to use the crossover and just leave the tweeter disconnected. I’d wire the dash speakers to the pre-crossover side and the mid/bass to the crossover. Appreciate the advice!

I suppose another path could be to put the MM6502 tweeters in the dash, and connect them together with the footwell mid/subs as Polk intended. I like having more range from the dash, though.

I am thinking of mixing the 4” Polk Audio DB402 dash speakers with the component audio mid/sub 6.5” MM6502 speakers. I know they share the same wiring connection. The mid/sub speaker could be a great complement to the 4” coax speaker, especially if I put a 300hz bass blocker on the smaller...

The good news about the switch is that all the wiring harnesses seem to be the same. There’s only like five wires going to the dashboard switch regardless of whether you have fog lights, side lights, etc.

I’ve been in that exact situation and it does nothing. My Civic would have warned me but the Bronco does nothing. I’m wondering if I have a bad radar sensor.

I’ve driven my 2024 Big Bend w/mid package almost 4k miles, but haven’t seen any pre-collision assist warnings. I’ve been in a few situations where I would have expected a warning, and have set this to the most sensitive setting. How can I test whether this is working without endangering...

Just got notice that mine shipped. :-) Looking forward to installing them later this week!

Got it working. The fog lights are connected to my (new) OEM switch, and the spots are connected to the aux switch.