Search results

I install several Eaton E-locker a month in my shop and have never had one come back with a problem like this.

update for anyone interested. Went to show a friend how the locker wouldn't function by touching the 2 leads directly to battery power with a 20A fuse (Like I tried several other times) and randomly it worked! So I wired it to my switch panel with a 15a fuse and function tested it several times...

Happen to still have that rear carrier laying around? Would possibly be interested in it.

Thank You!

Above I posted that I tried with a different meter, that one was auto. Read 4.2 in rear and 0.00 front.

Appreciate all the info. I guess my next question would be, what are the odds it’s a bad wire or something fixable if I were to crack it open? Not sure I’m gonna get any help from Ford performance or if it’s possible to just buy a coil.

New development. Friend brought better multi meter. Rear reads 4.2, front reads 0.00. Sweeeeett.

Interesting, so if my reading of 0 is correct the coil is toast? Genuinely confused why I'm getting 0 at the rear then?

Tried it, same result. Took of the housing union thingy and tested the locker plug directly. 0 ohms

Here is a pic of testing ohms at the rear again. After this was taken, I triple checked that it locks and unlocks just fine.

The following two pictures are me testing the leads coming up directly from the locker. 0 ohms plugged in and open when unplugged. I’m not too savvy on the electrical side of things, maybe I have it on the wrong settings?

Hmm I’ll have to attempt that again. I got 0 ohms at the rear locker is well and I’m 100% sure it works.

Recently did a M190 to M210 front differential swap in my Big Bend, its a brand new unit from Ford Performance. Install went great, about 150 miles on it now but I have yet to get the locker to function. I had seen others wire them directly to their aux witches without issue and since mine...