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Noise reduction

I’m gonna need that sticker for….reasons.

Why would they need to? And this is from someone who used to drive a pink 65 mustang.

Does it not bother anyone else that the highest amp switch, and therefore the least used (hopefully, as it’s likely to be a winch) is in slot 1.? I’m tempted to move it to six but am afraid I’d forget to mention that if I sold it. Which would be a neat trick considering I’m still waiting on a...

I have to make a 2 hour journey through deer suicide sanctuary quite often, and even The dimmest setting is far to bright in my flex. I keep a dark cloth to throw over when needed. I wish there was a quick off switch or a super dim linked to high beams.

Ah yes, the carjacking facilitator.

Is anyone else as annoyed as I am that the highest amp switch is slot one? Hopefully I’m not using the winch that often, I’m tempted to move it to 6 and put driving lights in 1and maybe remember to bring that up if I ever sell it.

Seems kinda meh

For most eco boost owners (no matter the engine size) the primary motivation, I believe, is eliminating the e boost buzz without gaining highway drone. If we can do that with a power boost, that’s a bonus. Power gains are the tie breaker for similar sounding products. Sound clips with quality...

It would be cheaper for them to just produce a single ip for the whole line, and the standard one looks like they realized that they needed one the night before the deadline and just slapped together the most basic uninspired gui since dos.

If they got in and took off without trouble, the keys were likely cloned. They can walk around the house looking for a signal then make their own, or even do it if they catch the owner in public. You can use a faraday box for key storage.

As I live in the land of suicidal deer, I’m letting lumens and beam projection be my tie breaker.

How hard of a concept is it to understand that OP stated he’s in charlotte, therefore his high idle will likely settle down if he remote starts while putting on his pants and shoes. And yes , a couple clowns did say to get in and go with no warm up.

Where can I find specs on how the Everglades vents are run? I’ve tried several permutations in the search engine and come up dry. Heh. I want to make sure I go AT LEAST as high as the glades.

These people can’t make the distinction between the motor being warm and the motor being lubricated. I bet if you told them how fast it heats up while on fire, they’d be stuffing lit rags in their gas tanks at the first frost.

I can’t believe the number of absolute clowns telling you to just take off no matter the temp. Oil viscosity is lower at cold temps, and parts tolerances change. While you don’t need the long warm ups of carbureted days unless it’s low enough for the block heater, you should at least wait until...

Correct me if I’m wrong as I don’t have my bronco yet, but isn’t the first switch the highest amp? Why? Why put what would inevitably and hopefully be the least used in the closest switch? Is there enough slack to reverse 1 and 6? I’d rather use it for suicidal deer lights.

There are literally YouTube vids on installing it if they would look. They should be done in less than an hour and be happy charging you for one.

I’m not where I can have access to a garage or carport at the moment and am looking for basically a straight one to one component replacement so I can avoid pulling my dash apart, etc. Did you find yourself forced into any major tear downs aside from the dynamite? I really don’t have a good way...

This is the thing. ADV wants 6k and only nets you a 3dB drop. 2k per dB is steep by any standard.