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The 2x4 supporting it from the top is smart. I saw several examples where people would just hook rachet straps under the lip of the top but I was worried about that putting weird stress on the top. Probably isn't an issue to be honest. None the less, I made a frame for the hard top to rest on...

Not snow, but here is some ice buildup after driving 14hrs through some "wintery mix."

I've searched the forum, Googled, asked ChatGPT and looked at a couple vendor websites without a clear answer. I'm looking for a SAE fog light only kit that will plug directly into the Badlands plugs that should already be there and then I'll purchase an OEM light switch to control vs upfitter...

Less about correcting you and more just a realization that I took pictures of the difference earlier this year 🤣. I never realized it until we had the two side by side looking to see if the Raptor hood would fit all full size for another user (it does).

Not sure if this already got mentioned later in this thread but the fenders are Raptor specific and part of what makes the body wider on top of the flares.

This exact interior option is one of the things that pushed me over the edge to get the Raptor.

It's wheat planting season.

Diy hoist using this video as a starting point. I didn't like weight of the top resting on just the hooks so I made an aluminum frame that the top sits on and has holes for the guide pins. Also went with a harbor freight electric hoist instead of the rope hoist in the video.

I've got a Raptor and a Badlands, I can take pictures of each side by side easier than each of us trying to recreate the same picture. Also happy to do measurements. The hoods are definitely different blanks from the start. Raw dimensions of panel gap, I don't see anything that immediately...

I didn't know if it meets your easy to remove criteria but recently got the OEM tonneau cover and after doing this suction cup mod, it works great. I can't find the thread I used which didn't glue the suction cups on, but used a leather punch and bolted these on. Cheaper 3rd party version...

Same concern for me, and as another person said, I barely have enough floor space for the doors, let alone the top which is why I wanted the top to rest on something even while hoisted. Either way, these floor carts are cool and fun projects that I'm glad people are making.

I didn't build a dolly but I did build an aluminum frame that the top could rest in and have it be lifted from the frame apposed to the top itself.

I was a big fan of the Trektop Pro on my JK and enjoyed it for many years. It was a great compromise between a hard top and traditional soft top. I would love to see a Bronco version.

I don't have those boards or the attic shelf so I don't definitively know but I think they will be .5-.75" too wide. Attic shelf specs says it's 44.5" wide, my traction boards (the other ones available from Ford Performance) are speced at 45". The ones you linked are 45.67" You can see how...

I have the exact concern, @texasteven was nice enough to take this picture you can use as an additional data point.

For me it's pretty simple, I don't value it as a feature and without "unauthorized" circumvention, it's active at every startup. Simply make the on/off state fixed and I couldn't care less. An example of when I don't like it when active is pulling into my garage, holding idle for a few...