2025 2.3L Ford Performance Tune

[burgerking]

What year is your Bronco?

It's a 2024.

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[Dave2020GT]

It's a 2024.

Im asking as the 2025s have both direct and port injection. This makes them more capable running E85.

 

[burgerking]

I was about an hour from the gas station I always fill up at. It didn't go into limp mode until I downshifted into 1st and went WOT on a steep incline. It seemed to be able to adjust for the mixture in normal driving but that situation must have maxed out the injectors or fuel pump.

 

[Dave2020GT]

I was about an hour from the gas station I always fill up at. It didn't go into limp mode until I downshifted into 1st and went WOT on a steep incline. It seemed to be able to adjust for the mixture in normal driving but that situation must have maxed out the injectors or fuel pump.

Makes sense.

 

[teej_25bb]

Just got my 2025 2.3L pro cal tuned--Big Bend 4 Door w/ Sasquatch.

Running 93, immediate differences seem to be a good amount more pull early on, a deeper purr from the engine/exhaust, and the turbo engages more frequently with a louder hiss.

It definitely feels more fun. Wish I had dyno or 0-60 stats to pass along.

 

[KreeHBronco]

Just got my 2025 2.3L pro cal tuned--Big Bend 4 Door w/ Sasquatch.

Running 93, immediate differences seem to be a good amount more pull early on, a deeper purr from the engine/exhaust, and the turbo engages more frequently with a louder hiss.

It definitely feels more fun. Wish I had dyno or 0-60 stats to pass along.

That is great news! Do you have a manual or auto trans?

 

[teej_25bb]

That is great news! Do you have a manual or auto trans?

Auto GOAT..was fiddling with it in normal 2H and Sport 2H.

 

[dvptcm]

If they're familiar with FP stuff then you should be good. The place I went to have been great for basic stuff but when I specifically called about the FP calibration they sounded like they had no clue what it was but were happy to install it since it was a Ford part. I had heard that there can be issues with shop's wifi/internet security with this as well as it's not uncommon for the calibration tools themselves to have some sort of issue.

The annoying part at this point is I am very confident I can do this myself (15 years working in IT) so I'm basically spending the money and time for the privilege of having a note in my vehicle's service record haha.

Just realized I forgot to follow up on this in case anyone else runs into issues.

The first to appointment for my tune install it took almost 2.5 hours and they said they could not get the tune to install correctly and asked me to contact FP directly, they did not charge me anything for the failed install.

After I called FP the person I spoke to made a to-do about how he got 20 calls a day from dealers having trouble installing the tune because of their local network security but asked for some information (screen shots from the FP tuning device settings) so he could take a closer look. After about two days of back and forth between the FP support guy and the FP engineering team, they made some kind of tweak on the back end to my device, had me do an update and asked me to go back to the dealer.

Not entirely sure what they tweaked but after going back the dealer was able to get the tune installed successfully in about 45 minutes or so and charged me the quoted $189 (one labor hour for them) to do it.

In case it helps anyone else, when troubleshooting with the guy from FP he had me plug the tuner into my PC and check the Device Info and I had the attached error message that they were able to clear up with whatever they did on the back end.

 

[servolk]

Any more reviews of the 2025+ tune? Has it affected the MPG?

 

[dvptcm]

Any more reviews of the 2025+ tune? Has it affected the MPG?

My tune got installed right about when gas prices shot the hell up and I had to borrow someone's track for a couple weeks to do some landscaping (no hitch yet) so I haven't been able to put a ton of miles on it since then.

The power is as described by several others, it's not a night and day difference by any stretch but definitely feels like a much stronger pull. Before I bought my 4 door 2.3 7MT, I test drove a 2 door 2.3 Auto and thought it felt pretty damn strong all things considered, my 4 door now feels closer to how the 2 door felt (believe it's about a 400-500lb difference between 2 door and 4 door). Haven't really done much off the line type acceleration so I can't speak to the lower RPM power but definitely stronger pull from ~3000 up.

As far as gas mileage, after I adjusted my tire size with ForScan (265/75R16 Cooper Discoverer Road and Trail on the OEM Base steelies), I was able to pretty consistently get about 20.5-21MPG, so far with the tune I seem to be able to match that without trying very hard. I live in a hilly area and it doesn't take much of a road change to give the mpg a net plus or minus.

Generally speaking ~$1,000 for a 10% boost to HP and TQ is a pretty solid deal.

 

[Colt45]

Any more reviews of the 2025+ tune? Has it affected the MPG?

Slight improvement. 1-2mpg. Been driving with it a lot.

 

[GetShifty_Bronco]

Got mine installed today. Definitely more noticeable than I had expected.

 

[merfsiu]

I also had the procal tune installed last week on my 7MT non-sas running P285/70R17. IMO it makes a huge difference in overall drive-ability. It makes usable power below 2k rpm. Totally changed my cruising/shift points.

WOT the 2.3 is now a pissed off little beast. The procal monitor shows boost hitting just shy of 23psi through most of the rpm range. Boost comes on hard and fast. I added a bov spacer for the giggle factor. Now I got a focus rs under the hood, lol. Maybe not for everyone... like my wife.

But honestly one of the biggest benefits of the tune, imo, is that I can easily drive around town, under 2k rpm without lugging the engine.

Normal driving nets me 22mpg. WOT runs to make friends laugh gets about 18.

 

[ManuelNY]

Here is my final update, could be titled: An Ordeal with a Happy Ending! Lol.

Back in February, I received the item from the Blue Oval site recommended on this thread, with the discount mentioned I paid $695, free shipping.

I registered on the website, with a log in and password and entered the product key and I got a confirmation. I figure that was good enough, and then I would let the dealer do the job.

My usual service dealer I go to (closer to me, not the one I bought the car from) quoted me $425 which seems like a lot, but they are close to my house and they offer a loaner or an uber ride if the repair takes longer. I did not have time shop around and this is NYC where an hour for anyone is expensive. I made an appointment, gave them the log in info, and the original paperwork with the codes, etc. After waiting for 2 hours they said they could not do it, that the unit was defective.

I called Ford Performance, 800-367-3788, hit option 2, got Tom on the line. We did some trouble shooting and try to connect the unit to the vehicle but that was not working. He said to send the unit back to have it checked out.

I shipped the unit back, and when I got the delivery confirmation I called them again. This time I got Ken on the line. He seems to be a supervisor. He checked the unit (took them a couple of days to hook it up to their procal computers to review it) and came back saying everything with the unit was ok and that we should try to do the process again, while I was on the phone. I followed his instructions, and it turns out that the mistake I was making when I called them the first time is that you have to use the usb cable provided with the unit, not any other usb cable, because the procal cable is a data cable capable of handling the amount of info needed to be transferred in a quicker time. So I downloaded the software to the unit, it updated fine, and this had not been done (the original dealer should have been able to pick up this). Then we connected it to the vehicle for the unit to get the vehicle information and then once more connected the unit to the PC to validate this.

There was just one more step, to program the vehicle with the unit now updated. This has to be done with with the bigger ethernet type of data cable included with the unit. But this was the step that really needed to be done by the dealer in order to keep the warranty.

I called the original dealer where i bought the car, which is much further away. They had given me an extra $2k for my Rubicon trade in and I should have gone to them to begin with, but because of the distance I had mistakenly figured all of them would charge the same. I was wrong. Mike the sales manager hooked me up with the service manager and they said it would be $175, less than half what the other dealer who could not do it quoted me. Granted, I did some work with Ford Performance to get the unit ready, but this new dealer did not know that.

I went today to finish the process at Crown Ford where I bought the car. I asked the service advisor to let me talk to the technician. I told him there was just one final step to be done, that I had done part of the job. He said he would verify everything. He did. Everything checked. This step took 25 minutes, maybe. The service advisor told me no charge, it was on the house. That was a class act on their part, and I will do the service here, even though it is 45 minutes away from home.

I drove the car from the dealer and I noticed what others have pointed: smoother shifting, a little bit more go when you push the car changing lanes, etc. As far as the exhaust notes, I would say that the exhaust is more quite at lower revs now, but that when you push the car, at higher revs, the growling is still there.

Done at last. Here are my tips for those of us that are less tech savvy and plan to go to the dealer:

* When you get the unit, call Ford Performance and ask for Ken if possible.
* Program the unit yourself, with step by step instructions from them.
* If you want to keep the warranty do not do the final step (with the ethernet cable) and make an appointment with the dealer.
* You will pay for that ,but it is an hour labor (really less than that).
* If you explain to them that you have done the unit programming maybe you get a lesser quote for their work, the final step.
* Keep the dealer install paperwork for future reference.


Hope this helps.

 

[GetShifty_Bronco]

Here is my final update, could be titled: An Ordeal with a Happy Ending! Lol.

Back in February, I received the item from the Blue Oval site recommended on this thread, with the discount mentioned I paid $695, free shipping.

I registered on the website, with a log in and password and entered the product key and I got a confirmation. I figure that was good enough, and then I would let the dealer do the job.

My usual service dealer I go to (closer to me, not the one I bought the car from) quoted me $425 which seems like a lot, but they are close to my house and they offer a loaner or an uber ride if the repair takes longer. I did not have time shop around and this is NYC where an hour for anyone is expensive. I made an appointment, gave them the log in info, and the original paperwork with the codes, etc. After waiting for 2 hours they said they could not do it, that the unit was defective.

I called Ford Performance, 800-367-3788, hit option 2, got Tom on the line. We did some trouble shooting and try to connect the unit to the vehicle but that was not working. He said to send the unit back to have it checked out.

I shipped the unit back, and when I got the delivery confirmation I called them again. This time I got Ken on the line. He seems to be a supervisor. He checked the unit (took them a couple of days to hook it up to their procal computers to review it) and came back saying everything with the unit was ok and that we should try to do the process again, while I was on the phone. I followed his instructions, and it turns out that the mistake I was making when I called them the first time is that you have to use the usb cable provided with the unit, not any other usb cable, because the procal cable is a data cable capable of handling the amount of info needed to be transferred in a quicker time. So I downloaded the software to the unit, it updated fine, and this had not been done (the original dealer should have been able to pick up this). Then we connected it to the vehicle for the unit to get the vehicle information and then once more connected the unit to the PC to validate this.

There was just one more step, to program the vehicle with the unit now updated. This has to be done with with the bigger ethernet type of data cable included with the unit. But this was the step that really needed to be done by the dealer in order to keep the warranty.

I called the original dealer where i bought the car, which is much further away. They had given me an extra $2k for my Rubicon trade in and I should have gone to them to begin with, but because of the distance I had mistakenly figured all of them would charge the same. I was wrong. Mike the sales manager hooked me up with the service manager and they said it would be $175, less than half what the other dealer who could not do it quoted me. Granted, I did some work with Ford Performance to get the unit ready, but this new dealer did not know that.

I went today to finish the process at Crown Ford where I bought the car. I asked the service advisor to let me talk to the technician. I told him there was just one final step to be done, that I had done part of the job. He said he would verify everything. He did. Everything checked. This step took 25 minutes, maybe. The service advisor told me no charge, it was on the house. That was a class act on their part, and I will do the service here, even though it is 45 minutes away from home.

I drove the car from the dealer and I noticed what others have pointed: smoother shifting, a little bit more go when you push the car changing lanes, etc. As far as the exhaust notes, I would say that the exhaust is more quite at lower revs now, but that when you push the car, at higher revs, the growling is still there.

Done at last. Here are my tips for those of us that are less tech savvy and plan to go to the dealer:

* When you get the unit, call Ford Performance and ask for Ken if possible.
* Program the unit yourself, with step by step instructions from them.
* If you want to keep the warranty do not do the final step (with the ethernet cable) and make an appointment with the dealer.
* You will pay for that ,but it is an hour labor (really less than that).
* If you explain to them that you have done the unit programming maybe you get a lesser quote for their work, the final step.
* Keep the dealer install paperwork for future reference.


Hope this helps.

Man that sounds like a pain. I just had my local dealer order it (Earnhardt Ford in Chandler, AZ) went to pick it up and accessories manager offered to install it then and there. Took them maybe 15-20 minutes max without hassle. Was around $150 or whatever their hour of labor costs.

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