Best Subwoofer upgrade (I spent too much on trial and error)

[DuneRunner]

Like many of us, I have been on a bit of a journey to get the audio system up to the standards of the rest of our Bronco Raptor. The vehicle is great in every aspect except the B&O system. If anyone is interested I will write up something about the rest of the upgrade we did, but I am going to focus on the subwoofer for this one.
First my requirements
1.) Nothing on the tailgate! - My rig is not a mall princess. We like high-speed desert runs and tend to be pretty aggressive off-road. I have seen a few jeeps with bent tailgates from the weight of a box on thin sheet metal.
2.) It must be musical - We listen to a pretty wide variety of music and want the system to sound good at low and high volumes
3.) Can't lose any cargo space

I started with the Gearshade box with a kicker 8, really didn't like it all. Next was the JL Stealthbox, which, on paper, meets all the criteria and is built well. After installing it, it sounded good but not great. It was very musical, a very fast sub that allows you to hear and feel kick drums, but the lower bass octaves are just missing. JL's choice of 10tw1 for this box was a compromise for the space available, and the box itself is a little undersized for that sub.
I was going to give in and get a box for the cargo floor when I found the SSVworks Bronco solution. I listened to the version they have for the Jeep with a kicker sub, and really didn't like it all, it was loud for sure, but not detailed at all. Fortunately, they sell the box unloaded. I used the specs of the box to match a subwoofer to it and went with AudioMobile's EVO 2410. The combination is perfect for me. Very detailed and highly musical bass that you can feel with the roof off at 70 on the highway. If anyone is thinking about the upgrade for their Bronco, I highly recommend this option for the sub. This option works for any Bronco, B&O, mid, or base.

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[brkdncr]

$400 and seems to be 4-door only for anyone curious.

https://ssvworks.com/products/2021-and-up-ford-bronco-rear-subwoofer-add-on

 

[Brian_B]

My rattles seem to have settled down with my 8” kicker, but if they decide to start back up this is bookmarked

This is interesting though:


Q: Can this mount on either side... driver/passenger. Giving you the possibility to run 2 10 inch subs?
A: The subwoofer enclosure has been desiogned to only fit on the driver side

 

[DuneRunner]

My rattles seem to have settled down with my 8” kicker, but if they decide to start back up this is bookmarked

This is interesting though:


Q: Can this mount on either side... driver/passenger. Giving you the possibility to run 2 10 inch subs?
A: The subwoofer enclosure has been designed to only fit on the driver side

I think the bracket that mounts to the tie-down must be mirrored to make it work.

 

[Area51BS]

There is plenty of room for a custom fiberglass passenger foot well sub. I’m doing one.

 

[stut1313]

Like many of us, I have been on a bit of a journey to get the audio system up to the standards of the rest of our Bronco Raptor. The vehicle is great in every aspect except the B&O system. If anyone is interested I will write up something about the rest of the upgrade we did, but I am going to focus on the subwoofer for this one.
First my requirements
1.) Nothing on the tailgate! - My rig is not a mall princess. We like high-speed desert runs and tend to be pretty aggressive off-road. I have seen a few jeeps with bent tailgates from the weight of a box on thin sheet metal.
2.) It must be musical - We listen to a pretty wide variety of music and want the system to sound good at low and high volumes
3.) Can't lose any cargo space

I started with the Gearshade box with a kicker 8, really didn't like it all. Next was the JL Stealthbox, which, on paper, meets all the criteria and is built well. After installing it, it sounded good but not great. It was very musical, a very fast sub that allows you to hear and feel kick drums, but the lower bass octaves are just missing. JL's choice of 10tw1 for this box was a compromise for the space available, and the box itself is a little undersized for that sub.
I was going to give in and get a box for the cargo floor when I found the SSVworks Bronco solution. I listened to the version they have for the Jeep with a kicker sub, and really didn't like it all, it was loud for sure, but not detailed at all. Fortunately, they sell the box unloaded. I used the specs of the box to match a subwoofer to it and went with AudioMobile's EVO 2410. The combination is perfect for me. Very detailed and highly musical bass that you can feel with the roof off at 70 on the highway. If anyone is thinking about the upgrade for their Bronco, I highly recommend this option for the sub. This option works for any Bronco, B&O, mid, or base.

Do you have B&O or no? If so, how did you wire it up?
What amp did you use?

 

[Johnny Mo]

I replaced my B&O with Infinity Reference 407f in all 4" locations, Memphis MJP6 in the kicks and for a sub went with Kicker 8" Comp R, standard mount, 4 ohm DVC in the stock sub box, mated to a Kicker Key 500.1 w remote volume knob. Extremely happy with my setup now and it is COMPLETELY stealth.

 

[indio22]

There is plenty of room for a custom fiberglass passenger foot well sub. I’m doing one.

Really? That's an interesting approach. I haven't removed the kick panels, didn't realize there was much room.

I don't get why people are trying to install the entire subwoofer behind the rear side panel. Basically having two speaker grills, the actual speaker grill hidden, and then a second grill being the plastic side panel grill.

Instead I'd make the subwoofer case larger to butt up out against the rear side panel, and then mount the sub to it like you'd normally do. The sub grill would stick out maybe an inch, but that would hardly matter in terms of cargo space. It could even allow for a deeper sub.

 

[Y2KFirehawk]

Do you have B&O or no? If so, how did you wire it up?
What amp did you use?

I believe all Braptors come with B&O. I'm also interested to know the amp choice. Also curious if the OP removed the factory amp and sub then too.

 

[DuneRunner]

Do you have B&O or no? If so, how did you wire it up?
What amp did you use?

The best option is the mobridge amp. It sounds great and plenty of power

I believe all Braptors come with B&O. I'm also interested to know the amp choice. Also curious if the OP removed the factory amp and sub then too.

i removed the amp and factory sub. I used mti amp rack and the mobridge amp. I added a distribution block so I can power high current accessories with an Anderson connector directly from the battery

 

[eduard4us]

The best option is the mobridge amp. It sounds great and plenty of power

i removed the amp and factory sub. I used mti amp rack and the mobridge amp. I added a distribution block so I can power high current accessories with an Anderson connector directly from the battery

I second this. I also replaced my B&O amp with mObridge, went true 3-way upfront, custom subwoofer box behind the panel with an Audiomobile Evo 2408 and used the RCA channel to feed a Kicker and an MTI Bronco cargo box with an Audiomobile 2112 that I can disconnect and remove when I need the cargo space. When that sub is removed I just need to switch to a preset that uses the stealth sub behind the panel.
mObridge solution is great

 

[DuneRunner]

I second this. I also replaced my B&O amp with mObridge, went true 3-way upfront, custom subwoofer box behind the panel with an Audiomobile Evo 2408 and used the RCA channel to feed a Kicker and an MTI Bronco cargo box with an Audiomobile 2112 that I can disconnect and remove when I need the cargo space. When that sub is removed I just need to switch to a preset that uses the stealth sub behind the panel.
mObridge solution is great

Love this solution

 

[DuneRunner]

Just because a few of you are interested:

Amp (I replaced the amp wiring to support my rear distribution system)--> https://mobridge.us/product/ford-bronco-amplifier-plug-and-play-a2b/

Amp rack in factory sub location --> https://www.mtiacoustics.net/all-en...ronco-amp-rack/p/441935692/category=127527532

AudioMobile Sub (I went with the Dual 4 ohm) --> https://breakersstereoandperformance.com/product/audiomobile-evo2410-dual-4-ohm-10-subwoofer/
or
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...-10-subwoofer-designed-for-compact-enclosures

Distrubution block --> https://www.tspeconline.com/product/VPNB4

Anderson connectors for High amp loads (Air compressor, inverter, etc) --> https://www.grainger.com/product/3BY21?gucid=N:N:FPL:Free:GGL:CSM-1946:tew63h3:20501231

I used tesa tape and loom on everything to protect wires and connections.

 

[DuneRunner]

Really? That's an interesting approach. I haven't removed the kick panels, didn't realize there was much room.

I don't get why people are trying to install the entire subwoofer behind the rear side panel. Basically having two speaker grills, the actual speaker grill hidden, and then a second grill being the plastic side panel grill.

Instead I'd make the subwoofer case larger to butt up out against the rear side panel, and then mount the sub to it like you'd normally do. The sub grill would stick out maybe an inch, but that would hardly matter in terms of cargo space. It could even allow for a deeper sub.

This person did exactly that. This install came out looking great. However, I didn't want to go through that much effort on the box, modification of the trim panel, and the glasswork needed for the back of the box.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...l-jl-audio-audison-lots-of-fabrication.87564/

 

[DuneRunner]

There is plenty of room for a custom fiberglass passenger foot well sub. I’m doing one.

Can you post pictures or start a new build thread? I don't think anyone else is trying this.

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