Recent content by Breptar

Don’t know how far you are from this spot, but this place is in San Diego: https://www.instagram.com/socalsuspension?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

I’m in the valley and don’t really trust many shops so I DIY, but this place seems to take pride in what they do: https://yelp.to/1oyjV9XYjh Not quite in the SFV, but not too far either.

Here ya go.

Run a bfg 39” km3 with KMC impact -12. For city driving I didn’t notice any rubbing at stock height. I ran stock higher for a few weeks. I’m now on hyperco 2/1 springs and there is no rubbing.

I had a buddy design me something similar and print it out if PLA, but because it’s a hard surface, it didn’t help. I’m hoping because these are rubber it’ll help isolate.

If there isn’t a way to tighten up the dashboard itself, I might try using these. https://www.tackform.com/products/ar-rst1-the-arm-rest-arm-support-and-cable-management-system

Thank you. When I installed the rail, I didn’t use the screws they provided for the plastic end legs. I took the dash apart and I used machine fasteners that used a washer and nylon locknut on the backside to secure those end legs to the dash. I did that to try to prevent some of that movement...

I don’t think so. I get that movement/vibration when I’m driving over a little bit of a bumpy road or pothole, etc. I know stuff is designed with tolerance in mind, but this seems a little excessive in my opinion.

Hey there, I have a 67 designs byod full rail and love it; however, what I don’t really like is that the dashboard vibration/movement from everyday driving conditions causes my phone or tablet to vibrate. I’m not using extremely long arms for the rail, they’re just enough to clear the...

My battery bank is over 80AH. I’m running all the same lithium chemistry so I’m not really concerned as all batteries will be ran in parallel. I designed the battery bank for my audio system, not really to run accessories while the vehicle is off.

Been a minute since I posted, but I had a rear storage compartment built for my braptor. I am trying to preserve as much space as possible. It’s made from steel and was designed to drop in and be removed. The plan is to powder coat it a textured black with some semigloss and gloss black for...

I panted my top pretty much as soon as I got my braptor, but I had a feeling this might happen because I could see the honeycomb from the day I got it.

Had mine MIC top painted and ppfd and I can see the cracks starting to come in! So annoying…

Good luck with the S&B lid when you’re wheeling hard. Majority of the people know with that intake have issues with the intake lid popping off while wheeling. I went with the k&n for the reason that the acrylic window takes vacations in the engine bay.

I had hit them up about figment about 6 months ago, glad you confirmed it worked. I’d still like to do this install on mine for when I tune it (waiting on avid to finalize their software for the braptor).